Thread: Rear A-frame

Originally Posted by Baffle

My plans of a rear a-frame did not occur as quick as I thought, engineer is happy with the design,I have removed my air bags and replaced with springs as the travel that is going to be achieved is a lot, I could get bigger bags again but there width is to big(too much work).
Im wondering, Instead of the a-frame, what about lengthening the arms on the watts link and running 1 arm at the top of the diff. So basically running a 4 link?. It would be quite cost effective and less work ( only if it worked)
All input would be much appreciated

What about the front

That's where the D2 really lacks travel

sorry Baz i am gona disagree with you there with the front of a D2 lacking in travel ,the front of a D2 has by far my effecient working front than the rear ,with a adjustable pan han rod it is endless in the front ,my front has only longer springs and 675 mm extended shocks with a further 20mm gained with the front lower shock mounts raised and the front of mine i unfortunately not found the limit yet (bearing in mind its rained everyday for 2weeks almost and have foiled a few test trips) but my rear binds up way before the front has reached it potential

cheers kelvin

5 link is going to be fitted.
getting the back really working well will stop the front end rearing in the air a lot so im attacking that first

5-link in the rear would be a very efficient model to change to in the D2. Change the radius arms for plain links and generate new top links. Add a long travel watts linkage and you're laughing.

Comparing the front to rear suspension on the D2. The axle mounts for the radius arms are similar in bolt position, but the front arms are longer which provides more leverage for better articulation. The front also runs softer springs, but has less weight on them. On a stocker there is about 100kg less over the front axle than the rear. On mine the front seems to be reasonably similar to the rear for articulation.

Originally Posted by Slunnie

5-link in the rear would be a very efficient model to change to in the D2. Change the radius arms for plain links and generate new top links. Add a long travel watts linkage and you're laughing.

Comparing the front to rear suspension on the D2. The axle mounts for the radius arms are similar in bolt position, but the front arms are longer which provides more leverage for better articulation. The front also runs softer springs, but has less weight on them. On a stocker there is about 100kg less over the front axle than the rear. On mine the front seems to be reasonably similar to the rear for articulation.

Having a 5 link rear was the original idea but people told me the a-frame was the go....
So you can see the watts if arms are extended would work,would I have to build a larger linkage? be good if it was kept original. I have already turned the upper arm mount on the arm connecting to the chassis a few degrees so it stays in line better. You dont like the 4 link thought, with plain links for trailing arms and 1 arm from top of diff to chassis ?
Thanks

Originally Posted by Baffle

Having a 5 link rear was the original idea but people told me the a-frame was the go....
So you can see the watts if arms are extended would work,would I have to build a larger linkage? be good if it was kept original. I have already turned the upper arm mount on the arm connecting to the chassis a few degrees so it stays in line better. You dont like the 4 link thought, with plain links for trailing arms and 1 arm from top of diff to chassis ?
Thanks

4link as an A-frame is a good setup but a lot of work, 4link with 4 individual links I think wouldn't be stable enough on the road with rubber bushes in the links and I'm not sure that currently Rose/heim joints are legal which I suspect would be required for it to not wander. 5Link binds a bit more but they still flex like crazy. The limitation of the watts linkage is when you want crazy insane offroad only suspension, otherwise the trend seems to be towards watts links that are bent for additional clearance at the diff end. Ultimately the watts link will limit overall travel in the axle rather than articulation as such. The 5link with a cranked watts linkage would be a very easy setup to put into a D2 for a lot of outright gain.

why not just ditch the watts and go a panhard? i woulda have thought it woulda have been easier.

this d2 in the states appears to be running one

Na, 5 link and keep the watts, its a good system, will lengthen and crank arms or ditch the lot and A frame