Thread: D1 TDI diagnostics

Here's what you can do with a dedicated tool(from hawkeye menu), most of them have enable/disable options

Menus - Security
Security - 10AS
Defender
Defender (L316) (2007 -)
Discovery I

-Live Data

-Programming:
GEMS Immobilisation
Spider Immobilisation
EDC Immobilisation
DDS Immobilisation
Catalyst Overheat Warning
Land Rover Defender
Discovery Interior Lights
Defender Interior Lights
Pulsed Horn
Hazards ON Alarm Triggered
Hazards ON Alarm Arm / Disarm
Passive Immobilisation
CDL Operative With Alarm Armed
Immobiliser Off With Ignition
Disarm Alarm / Immob. With Key
Disarm Alarm Only with Key
Unlock Vehicle - No Disarm
Mislock Sounder
LED Indication of Alarm Trigger

-Transmitters

So no permanent disable of the immobiliser then .

it is possible to change the wiring so the alarm only controls the central locking.

Originally Posted by loanrangie

So no permanent disable of the immobiliser then .

i'm not sure as i dont have a D1 but i think those first menus(maybe EDC immobilisation for you) are enable/disable so maybe you can

Originally Posted by loanrangie

So no permanent disable of the immobiliser then .

If you are having problems with the car not starting due to the immobiliser, you can bypass that part of the circuit and run a wire straight to the starter solenoid.



Behind the RH kick panel you will find a bank of relays. Look for the yellow holder (and yellow relay if yours is still the original) and the brown wire/red trace. This wire goes to the immobiliser and then on to the starter solenoid. Cut it and solder or crimp a wire and take it through the firewall and connect it to the starter solenoid.
The black wire I'm holding goes straight to the starter solenoid. I left the original wire there in the harness and just taped it up out of the way.

Had this issue 3 years ago and i just ran a separate switch on the dash direct to solenoid as a work around but if possible would like to fix it properly, tried a few idea's of bridging wires before the alarm module but nothing so far has worked.

Originally Posted by Rick122

If you are having problems with the car not starting due to the immobiliser, you can bypass that part of the circuit and run a wire straight to the starter solenoid.



Behind the RH kick panel you will find a bank of relays. Look for the yellow holder (and yellow relay if yours is still the original) and the brown wire/red trace. This wire goes to the immobiliser and then on to the starter solenoid. Cut it and solder or crimp a wire and take it through the firewall and connect it to the starter solenoid.
The black wire I'm holding goes straight to the starter solenoid. I left the original wire there in the harness and just taped it up out of the way.

Just curious, but what about the Wire to the Injection Pump? Has this got to be considered at all?

My issue doesnt affect the starter circuit and i can happily crank til the battery is flat but getting no power to the pump solenoid or glow plug relay.