Thread: Grumble - FL1 Air Con

AFAIK you will have to replace the pipe with a similar one as the system is pressurised (even on the low-pressure loop). As for the refilling, there should be no need to remove the compressor. Having said that, I did not do the job myself but entrusted it to an AC-specialist as it requires some additional equipment and, most importantly, the fluid removed has to be disposed of adequately as it is considered environmentally hazardous.

Thanks - unfortunately the alternator sits on top of the a/c compressor so access is restricted. The a/c mechanic will be able fill it with gas through the appropriate port on the exposed pipes and normally the oil would go in there as well however there is still at lot of oil in there which has to be removed and Rave implies it is best filled on the bench. Though the RAVE is working on the assumption that a new compressor is being installed or it is being regassed and reoiled with both being removed in an environmental manner rather than being dumped on the driveway.

This will start to be expensive if the A/c mechanic has to remove lots of bits to do the refill.

I will take out the damaged pipe today so that EnZed can have a look to see if they put a new hose between the ends. When I have put the new pipe on (and away from the serpentine belt - there are no ties to keep it away - poor design Land rover) and the bought the receiver dryer, I will book the car in to get the A/c going again.

I am just a bit grumpy over this as I was hoping the car would be ready to clean up and get ready for sale - a while longer yet.

Garry

the company i previously work for would weld an alloy barbed tail onto the alloy pipes and crimp/clamp a replacable pipe.
other companies use an apoxy glue on crimped hose.compressor to condencor is higest pressure in system.

OIL.
when replaceing parts there is a formular for adding oil.it relies on you knowing how much is availabe.i have made gauge sets with an oil/moisture window that you can allow the compressor to circulate and bypass the system.

If you driving allong the hose has burst the system will absorb some moisture or dirt.moisture will be mostly drawn off by evacuation.but the contamination will end up in the condensor.

old compressors had drain plugs but environmental freindly cars dont.some compressors have through bolts that allow oil to be draind off.
flushing compounds and flushing tools are common.

Originally Posted by garrycol

... some how touching the serpentine belt...

--writes on back of hand to check hoses in own diesel hippo tonight --

That's rotten luck Garry ... sorry to hear it's messing you about like that.

IMHO this is not a complex problem. It will just cost a bit.

Any travelling air bloke should be able to make up a pipe for you .
If it was R12 then he should be able to convert it to R134A by just flushing, regassing, and replacing the receiver dryer.
The new oils for R134A are OK with remnants of R12 oil, well mine has been for about 5 years.
OK , now this is the time that there will be post after post on the evils of 134A.
My experience has been exactly the opposite in that the a/c works just as well as R12 . I had 2 pipes start to leak from the swages , but in my case the system was over pressurised by both fans failing in Kununurra .I only realised this when the starter would not turn the engine with the air on so it was a pretty serious overpressure and could hardly be blamed on 134A.
Regards Philip A

Regards Philip A

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Any travelling air bloke should be able to make up a pipe for you .
If it was R12 then he should be able to convert it to R134A by just flushing, regassing, and replacing the receiver dryer.
The new oils for R134A are OK with remnants of R12 oil, well mine has been for about 5 years.
OK , now this is the time that there will be post after post on the evils of 134A.

Regards Philip A

I would have thought that too - neither EnZed or Pirtek can do A/C hoses however a small local company says they have the correct rubber to do the job so I will take the old pipe out and take it to them.

I understood all Landrovers changed to the new gas in 1994. My Jan 94 pre update D1 had the old gas and my May 94 D1 had the new gas - so I assume my 98 Freelander also has the new gas.

No posts on the pros or cons of whatever gas - what will be going in it is what is supposed to go in it.

Garry

new model cars built after 93 must have R134A not the year but the model.
if a 1993 model was built for several years it still was allowed to use R12.

R134a is marginally different to R12 but the condensors that have been released since then are miles ahead and you find these designs improvement are included in replacment parts to suit older cars.

the issue with the old R12 oil was it doesnt flow with new gas but is blown around ending up in areas like the dryer compressor and the bottom of the condensor/evaporator.new Tx valves have different pressure settings to improve performance.

Have replaced a few hoses on these,mostly for dealers that bought them with dead engines in boxes.

Hi Garry, have a quick look here http://www.landroverclassicparts.com.au/SearchResults.aspx'model=19016&cat=19035&subCat=-1&keywords=¤tPage=5

in case one of those is the hose you're after ? might be cheaper than having one made up...

Cheers,

Scott. (haven't forgotten about the clutch clamp either ... )