Thread: Glow Plugs - L series Diesel

Easy test is to disconnect the wiring from the plug and use a piece of wire from the + of the battery and tap the end of the plug, if it sparks they are usually alright.

Never had any issues removing them, but there is always a 1st.

Also had a few that are difficult to start even with good glow plug (mine being one of them). with these I advanced the injector pump 1/4 of a tooth, this cures the problem.

Thanks for that - it does seem harder to start since I did the belts so maybe even though the belt is on the right spot on the pulleys it might have moved on the adjuster. Hmmm not quite up on moving it so I will have to do some reading.

I assume that you do not lock the pump and you loosen the idler pulley a bit and the loosen off the adjuster bolts on the rear pulley holding the actual pully in place with a 3/8 drive in the square hole.

To advance the pump do you move it counter clockwise (top of the belt to the front) or clockwise (top of the belt to the rear). I assume that with everything connected and only loosened you cannot adjust things too far.

Cheers

Garry

DI diesels shouldn't need the glow plugs even in a canberra winter. you should look elsewhere.

Easiest way to advance timing is to put a timing mark on the injector pump and cam shaft, loosen the bolts on the cam shaft pulley while holding the injector pump. Move the injector pump counter clockwise 1/4 tooth (make sure cam shaft hasn't moved) and tighten bolts on cam shaft pulley. Don't loosen the tensioner pulley. This way you will only need to remove the FIP belt cover only.
If you can do a cam belt on one of these it will be a breeze for you.

Disagree with DI not needing glow plugs. With older DI yes but most modern diesels need them. Good example take a TD4 with no fuel burning heater to the snow, you will have troubles starting even with glow plugs.

Thanks Woko - not sure I would be game to do that - likely to stuff it up . I might get a local diesel service to do it for me.

Cheers

Garry

Hi Garry

There is a lack of information about on these L motors. So if you don't mind me hanging onto the coat-tails of this thread, I would like to keep the thread going with some other faults pertaining to the 'L' motor.

The problem is again with the Freelander belonging to Graham ( He was the one stuck in Warwick, Q'ld for 5 weeks with this Freelander and its head problems ).

To recap a little, the Freelander when Graham purchased it, looked to be a very clean and tidy unit. He did the usual motor checks for leaks, coolant colour and for clean oil. The purchase took place somewhere north of Brisbane and Graham started off to drive home, the rear welsh plug bust through corrosion letting the coolant go, just north of Warwick, which in turn lead to the damaged head being replaced along with the turbo.

How the current problem relates to that part of its history is unclear, but it did come about after that chain of events.

The problem is in my judgement, is with the turbo's boost pressure as the waste gate setting hasn't been checked since the turbo was replaced.
What is the correct or recommended boost pressure allowed for this motor?

The motor does run nicely at idle and won't show any faults until it is revved up, either at stand still or driving and then the power output the engine produces is then cut back.
Is this effect the so called limp home mode?

I can get back with some more specific details of the symptoms if asked what to look for, but in the meantime the car is drivable, although it's down on power.
Should we be looking for a device to read or reset the car's computer?
.

Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

Hi Garry

There is a lack of information about on these L motors. So if you don't mind me hanging onto the coat-tails of this thread, I would like to keep the thread going with some other faults pertaining to the 'L' motor.

What is the correct or recommended boost pressure allowed for this motor?

The motor does run nicely at idle and won't show any faults until it is revved up, either at stand still or driving and then the power output the engine produces is then cut back.
Is this effect the so called limp home mode?

Should we be looking for a device to read or reset the car's computer?
.

The L series is well covered in the RAVE Manual and the Freelander Haynes workshop manual.

I cannot see where turbo boost is listed.

Check the air fliter - if clogged it will strangle the engine at 3000rpm. Having said that the symptoms do indicate limp mode but normally the check engine light would be on. Limp mode happens when the ECU detects a fault (usually a sensor failure). The ECU is programmed with a range of default values for the sensors so that when an error is detected the majority of sensors are ignored(not sure which ones) and the ECU uses its own programmed values which allow the engine to run but not at its maximum performance (hence limp mode). Driving the car (I did it from Melbourne to Canberra) it is a slug - slow acceleration and a top speed of about 110 kph but the check engine light should be on (if it not on you are not in limp mode).

You should get codes cleared and then start and run the engine and see what codes come back.

Check that air filter first though.

Garry

Recommended boost pressure is 14psi.

It wont get full boost pressure at stand still free revving the engine. the boost may not be right, but I think you have another problem.

It sounds like the needle lift sensor is faulting due to fuel starvation.

How long since the fuel filter was changed?

Has the screen in the fuel supply banjo bolt been checked and cleaned?