Thread: Just got the Freelander

Congratulations on the purchase.

I cannot really help with the cooling issue but some things to check. Obviously coolant level, splits in hoses and air in the system - there is a bleed screw on the top hose that goes through the firewall from the engine bay to the cabin - on the passenger side (well there was on my much earlier FL1).

If the VCU test came up OK then the noise at the rear is unlikely to be the VCU - when it locks it stays lock and you would pick it up when slow driving in tight circumstances. You can now get new VCUs for about $1000 plus an hour or two fitting. Check the UJs on the drive shaft.

The noise could be the rear diff. The front diff mount on the rear diff has a short service life - usually about 80,000km and can allow the diff the knock or touch the body passing vibration to the body.

I am afraid some investigation will be required.

Garry

Thanks everytime Garry
I'm really appreciate.

I just done three VCU tests so far.
Firstly, I tried to reverse with full lock, then there was no symtom of VCU failure. The car reversed smoothly.
Secondly, I tried to do wheel check by the way you posted past time, and the wheel slowly turn, so should be ok.
Finally, I touched the VCU unit itself with my hand and it was not even warm after 30km of driving.
Some articles said that the VCU unit may be warm or even hot after few miles of driving if its siezed.
In conclusion, I think the VCU unit is ok, but thanks for your information about the cost of replacing VCU

I went Triumph Rover Spares to buy cargo blind, and asked them about temperature. (I couldn't buy the blind though)
The mechanic said it is possible for diesel eugine to drop the temperature little bit down if I cruising without acceleration.
He also said as long as there is no Eugine Check light on, I don't really need to worry about it.
I decided to watch it out until next service schedule.

About the noise, thanks again to let me know about rear diff.
I'm going to start homework again regarding to rear diff through this forum.

Thank you very much Garry
Many helps all the time!

Originally Posted by garrycol

Congratulations on the purchase.

I cannot really help with the cooling issue but some things to check. Obviously coolant level, splits in hoses and air in the system - there is a bleed screw on the top hose that goes through the firewall from the engine bay to the cabin - on the passenger side (well there was on my much earlier FL1).

If the VCU test came up OK then the noise at the rear is unlikely to be the VCU - when it locks it stays lock and you would pick it up when slow driving in tight circumstances. You can now get new VCUs for about $1000 plus an hour or two fitting. Check the UJs on the drive shaft.

The noise could be the rear diff. The front diff mount on the rear diff has a short service life - usually about 80,000km and can allow the diff the knock or touch the body passing vibration to the body.

I am afraid some investigation will be required.

Garry

You need to wait until Mr Woko comes along - he is the Freelander expert on AULRO and even knows a little about TD4s.

Garry

Your temp gauge issue sound like a thermostat that is stuck open. Its not common on Freelanders for the temp gauge to fluctuate as they controlled by the engine ECU and operate in a window of temps to positions of gauge. Normal running temp is half way, and should never move if all is ok.
Thermostat is not nice to change as it is fitted on the front of the water pump and very little room to remove. Rave will tell you to remove rocker cover to undo coolant bypass pipe but it can be done with out removing these items.

Noise under cornering would probably be a wheel bearing on its way out. Remove tail shaft and go for a drive, this will remove any load on drive system to the rear. If noise is still present it will be a wheel bearing.
Just a bit more info about it would be good.
Does it only happen around left turns, right turn or both?\
Can you describe the sound?

Thanks Woko
I'm agree with you that the temperature gauge issue probably related to a thermostat.
I guess it is stuck half opened I tried to get some information and found that few TD4s have thermostat problem.
I'll ask a mechanic to do the job just hopefully it won't cost a lot.

I searched information about wheel bearing, and it sounds like similar to my problem.
The sound sounds like sort of metalic or whistling sound and it happens on both turn, but is bigger when turn to right than turn to left.
Thnak you for giving me a good advice that I can search more inforamtion and knew more about my Freelander!

I'll keep reporting my problems and how I treated it for next Freelander owners!
Thank you all owners here!

Originally Posted by woko

Your temp gauge issue sound like a thermostat that is stuck open. Its not common on Freelanders for the temp gauge to fluctuate as they controlled by the engine ECU and operate in a window of temps to positions of gauge. Normal running temp is half way, and should never move if all is ok.
Thermostat is not nice to change as it is fitted on the front of the water pump and very little room to remove. Rave will tell you to remove rocker cover to undo coolant bypass pipe but it can be done with out removing these items.

Noise under cornering would probably be a wheel bearing on its way out. Remove tail shaft and go for a drive, this will remove any load on drive system to the rear. If noise is still present it will be a wheel bearing.
Just a bit more info about it would be good.
Does it only happen around left turns, right turn or both?\
Can you describe the sound?

Hi all!
I went Solitaire Land Rover dealership today.
They checked my car with computer and said there is no problem at all.
I guess the temperature guage shouldn't be moved at all.
However, they said even though the guage is moving, there is no point to replace a thermostat.
Should I believe their computer? or is it better to replace a thermostat anyway?
Very confusing...
Is it better to visit other Land Rover specialist?

Plugging the computer in and testing the temp level with the computer, This only tests that the ECU is telling the gauge to go to the correct spot.

The thermostat is not electronically controlled on a TD4 Freelander

With the gauge working correctly with the ECU there can only be 2 things that could cause the gauge to fluctuate. 1: being the temp sensor is U/S, or 2: thermostat U/S, but delivering high air flow to the radiator and temp will drop and will come back to normal when air flow to radiator is reduced, it would be the thermostat.

Running with a open thermostat isn't a do or die problem, but the engine is designed to run a temperature that the thermostat controls. You may see a very slight reduction in fuel consumption on highway use. Engine internals are at a operating temperature so they wear evenly. Personally for the small cost involved in fitting a new thermostat I would fit one. Another thing is your heater will work correctly with a thermostat

Here's one on e Ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FREELANDER...item1e7d3383aa

Thanks Woko.

I decided to replace a thermostat, but as I'm not a mechanic, I'll try to find a experienced LR specialist to get the job done.
By the way, it seems like definitly a thermostat problem.
Delivering high air flow to the radiator drops temperature and reducing air flow to radiator sends temperature back to normal.
Also, heater temperature changes depends on temperature guage level.
I also feel that my car doesn't get similar level of fuel economy compared from other owner's on this forum.
I got around 9.5L/100km on 30% urban, 70% extra urban road driving.
Thank you for your idea and it's very helpful.

Originally Posted by woko

Plugging the computer in and testing the temp level with the computer, This only tests that the ECU is telling the gauge to go to the correct spot.

The thermostat is not electronically controlled on a TD4 Freelander

With the gauge working correctly with the ECU there can only be 2 things that could cause the gauge to fluctuate. 1: being the temp sensor is U/S, or 2: thermostat U/S, but delivering high air flow to the radiator and temp will drop and will come back to normal when air flow to radiator is reduced, it would be the thermostat.

Running with a open thermostat isn't a do or die problem, but the engine is designed to run a temperature that the thermostat controls. You may see a very slight reduction in fuel consumption on highway use. Engine internals are at a operating temperature so they wear evenly. Personally for the small cost involved in fitting a new thermostat I would fit one. Another thing is your heater will work correctly with a thermostat

Here's one on e Ebay
FREELANDER TD4 THERMOSTAT BMW 2.0 DIESEL ENGINE BRAND NEW BOXED E PEL100570L | eBay