Thread: 2000 Freelander 1.8 Petrol Stopping when HOT

YES...this is a curly one...

Yesterday in desperation, and still suspecting the Crank Position Sensor may be the culprit once it got hot, I decided to flood the sensor with cold water while the engine was running.....35 minutes from starting. the engine cut out, and would not start for two or three minutes.

Something is stopping the power to the fuel pump, and this only happens after the engine has run for 1/2 hour or so, so I still suspect it may be temperature related....but what..??

I'm no auto-electrician, but suspect the circuit is as simple as the fuel pump relay receiving power via the ignition switch then voltage supplied to fuel pump via the inertia switch with earth return via the ECU...??

Could it be something in the ECU..??

Would be grateful for any suggestions guys

I hope you get some responses soon but I am sorry to say that there are not too many people on here with experience with the 1.8s as they were a problematic engine and many people offloaded them once they became aware of the issue.

However if yours is still running after 16 years then the inherent issues must have been dealt with and you most likely have a age related issue.

Most Freelander people on here are familiar with the diesels and later V6s.

Good luck and hopefully you will get some answers.

Cheers

Garry

Originally Posted by garrycol

I hope you get some responses soon but I am sorry to say that there are not too many people on here with experience with the 1.8s as they were a problematic engine and many people offloaded them once they became aware of the issue.

However if yours is still running after 16 years then the inherent issues must have been dealt with and you most likely have a age related issue.

Most Freelander people on here are familiar with the diesels and later V6s.

Good luck and hopefully you will get some answers.

Cheers

Garry

Thanks for the reply Garry....

Yes, my 1.8 has been ultra reliable to date. Only issues to this stage have been the water pump and rear brake actuators needing replacing.

I took the precaution of doing the timing belt, thermostat relocation, and also replaced the cylinder head dowels and the cylinder head gasket. Also fitted a Marine grade level indicator to monitor the coolant water level....This alone alerted me to the fact that the water pump seal was leaking in plenty of time to prevent a melt down.

Just been digging around and found the wiring to the HDC switch on the gear lever broken...Soldered it up, but this did not achieve anything unfortunately.

I know the 1.8's cop a bagging, and probably rightly so in many instances. Still can't help think what might have been if it "worked" from the get go.....

First up...I am no mechanic.

I used to own a 2001 FL1 KV6 and had a problem with the Crank Position Sensor. In my case the vehicle would not restart (occasionally) on a hot motor, did not have any "Amigos" showing and the vehicle ran normally when driven. If it did not start on a hot motor, I would wait till it cooled down and it would re-start normally.

AllFourX4 at Kotara replaced the Crank Position Sensor and I had no further problems.By the sound of it, your problem is more involved.

Crank sensor failure will log a fault in the ECU.

Need to check to see if its losing power to the fuel pump relay when this happens. Ignition switch could be at fault if you are losing the amigos when it happens.

If you still have power to fuel pump relay when this happens it will be either the engine ECU or the CCU. The CCU controls anti theft.

The HDC switch is a design issue for the FL1 and is an issue with most of them - I had a 98 diesel for 8 years and had the issue - the gear lever rips the wires out of the switch and it gets damaged and hence you either don't have HDC and no light or no HDC and the wires short and the light is on in the dash.

I replaced the switch with a micro switch from Jaycar - I think I had to glue it in position and lengthened the wires so the gear lever did not rip them out.

On the 2/3 Amigos - I used to get them a few times - was always dirt in the air gap on the sensors and was cleared with a squirt of the hose or compressed air. If that does not fix it then the next thing to check is the wiring up the suspension strut - it does get damaged occasionally. Next is a faulty sensor - should show up in your codes. Failing that the ABS modulator maybe dirty or need repair. Used to have to replace but now there are repair kits for these.

While FL1s do get the 3 Amigos it is usually just dirt and is not problematic like the same issue is in D2s.

Garry

Can anyone recommend a Freelander experienced Auto-Electrician in the Newcastle area... Bearing in mind that I could only risk driving for around 20 minutes at a time........

BTW....Thanks for the responses guys...I do appreciate the time and effort

Oh yeah...2 Amigo's now seem to be a permanent feature....

Most so-called "mechanics" in the Newcastle area don't want to know you if you turn up in a Freelander 1. Been there done that. I can't help you with an auto electrician, maybe contact AllfourX4 at Kotara who may be able to recommend someone or our resident Freelander expert (Woko) may know somebody.

All Four x 4 Spares - Home