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Thread: Dead Freelander...

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Newcastle NSW
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    Dead Freelander...

    Have had my 1.8 Petrol Freelander for a few years now, without a hint of a problem (apart for having to replace a wheelbearing).

    My son borrowed it yesterday to take a trailerload of rubbish to the dump. About 15 mins after him leaving, I get a phone call asking if I had been having any problems with it lately, as he was stoped on the side of a very busy road and it would crank but it would not start.

    He had noticed it missing pulling up a slight incline, but a 100M or so later, it just lost power completely, and he rolled to a stop...

    Suspecting everything from loss of water to failed fuel pump to even running out of fuel...I made a quick trip out to meet him.

    The first thing I checked was water level, oil level and fuel level...All OK

    Checked the fuel pump fuse and it was OK. Turned on the ignition and could hear the fuel pump running. Phew!!!

    The engine would crank freely but not fire. This is usually an indication of lack of fuel or spark. As it appeared that I had plenty of fuel I suspected spark.

    Did a quick check and had spark from the coil....Mmmmm

    By this stage the afternoon peak hour traffic was building up, so in the interests of safety I organised a tow truck to return the vehicle to my home address (7K's away)..

    With the vehicle parked safely back at home and no longer intimidated by passing cars & trucks I was able to think a bit more clearly.... What could it be .....??

    It definitely had fuel. The fuel pump was running OK. Not sure about the fuel filter though, and have heard some horror stories about contaminated fuel lately...??

    There was spark to the distributor....Best check that there was spark to the plugs.....Mmmmm nothing.. Perhaps the distributor rotor is buggered..??

    Removed the air filter body and pulled the distributor cap back and from what I could see of the rotor it looked OK.

    Pulled the plug leads off the distributor cap and took a look inside...mmmm interesting.. All of the contact points were severely corroded and the carbon button was completely fritzed.

    A quick call to All 4 x Four spares and I soon had myself a new distributor rotor and cap fitted.

    Now... this Freelander only has around 80,000 K on the clock. I have never had a distributor problem on any of my previous vehicles and they had all done far in excess of 80K K's

    May be time to take a look at yours......

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
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    You know how to live on the edge - having a 1.8 Freelander - have you done the cooling system/thermostat mods - if not do them NOW.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  3. #3
    Carl Gilmore Guest
    Thanks Seahorse.

    had a look at mine, similar thing, corrosion, black button is o.k. What was your rotor like?

    how much did you pay? is it OEM?

    Regards,

    Carl

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Newcastle NSW
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    The top of the rotor button was badly pitted where it made contact with the carbon button and had also had a rough build up...I guess from the arking as the carbon button wore down. The tip looked OK

    The original distributor cap was made by Lucas, as I imagine was the rotor button.

    The replacement cap was made in UK (Nottingham). Never seen the brand before, but appeared to be of good quality.

    Paid $52.50 for Cap & Rotor @ All Four x 4 Spares (Kotara Newcastle)

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    You know how to live on the edge - having a 1.8 Freelander - have you done the cooling system/thermostat mods - if not do them NOW.

    Garry
    First thing I did when I purchased the 1.8L was to factor in the cost of the cooling system upgrade.

    Went straight to All Four X 4 and purchased all the required bits..

    Replaced the head gasket with the latest specification gasket.

    Replaced plastic dowel pins with steel.

    Fitted all new head bolts.

    Fitted new coolant head tank and latest specification cap.

    Fitted new thermostat and plumbing remote from engine.

    Fitted new timing belt.

    Fitted all new auxillary belts.

    Tested the Viscous coupling etc.

    The 1.8 has run like new since then, until the minor hiccup the other day. The only other niggling problem I have is the front diff mount is on the way out. I am currently psyching myself up to replace it. One day!!!

    Am now also in the process of fitting a coolant low level alarm...just in case.!!!

    I agree, you certainly live on your nerves being a Freelander owner, but wouldn't swap mine for anything..

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
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    Looks like you have done all the right stuff - I think you can happily move back from the edge and relax .

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Redland Bay QLD
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    I am on my 4th ignition rotor. They do everything from melt to explode. Its a very useful spare to have.

    Cheers!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    South Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by beforethevision View Post
    I am on my 4th ignition rotor. They do everything from melt to explode. Its a very useful spare to have.

    Cheers!
    why do Freelanders keep burning out their rotors and caps all the time? is it a fault or something that can be sorted, im on my 3rd cap and rotor button in 18 months

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Hunter Valley
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigfitzy View Post
    why do Freelanders keep burning out their rotors and caps all the time? is it a fault or something that can be sorted, im on my 3rd cap and rotor button in 18 months
    How old are your plug and leads?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    South Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by woko View Post
    How old are your plug and leads?
    approx 18 months, coil and main lead were replaced when last cap and rotor button burnt out

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