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Thread: It's a Land Rover thing I know BUT.....

  1. #11
    Rangier Rover Guest
    I would be very surprised if you have much trouble with the Isuzu coming apart.. The ancillaries may be different though. As for the rest of the Landy welcome to the club!
    As mentioned before try and keep the idle around 900 rpm and the rivets will stay in the body
    Mine is a 5 speed and runs 35" tyres so runs in the sweet spot 2200 RPM on the highway. I think they can resonate a bit at around 3000 RPM so if held there for a long period may play havoc on fuel pipes etc.
    The the leaks you have there can be cured. I amongst many others have oil tight Rovers.
    The trick to it is get the slack out, repair/sleeve/ replace the surface the seal runs on(Flange/selector shaft)
    The early power steering reservoirs and hose set up can be a curse for weeping.

    Sounds like a worthwhile project you have there. Once you get the gremlins out you'll love it

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Kalgoorlie WA
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    Landrover / Isuzu are not on their own in this regard - well at least the vibration issues anyway.

    I used to run a Toyota Hi-Ace LWB van as a pilot vehicle a few years back. Was a brilliant and reliable vehicle for the job - had a million km on the clock when I replaced it with an F100 with Chev diesel. It still had the original engine and diff, but was on its third gearbox (I stuffed 2 up using 5th gear when I really should only have been using 4th - overdrive and a bloody great sign sticking up on the roof are not a good mix).

    Anyway, this thing used to rattle bolts out like nothing I'd ever seen before. Main problem areas were the bolts holding the starter motor in (I nearly lost the starter once - only just caught it) and also the bolts holding the bell housing onto the back of the engine.

    A big part of my regular maintenance on this thing was going over all the bolts and tightening things up.

    But it did go a lot of places that some say you shouldn't with only 2WD - has been out to Telfer / Nifty etc many times, and done the Gibb River road twice without problem (other than getting bogged in the Oakover River crossing once - my fault). The main issue in some of these places was river crossings. The air intake was located very low down behind the passengers side door, with the air cleaner in a compartment in the front end of the step behind the sliding door. I could only cross flowing water driving forward if the water was flowing from my right to left. If flowing the other way, I used to turn round and reverse through - a snorkle was an obvious necessity, but nothing on the market to suit.

    But on the other point mentioned - the old girl never had any oil leaks.
    Cheers .........

    BMKAL


  3. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Ballina, NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rangier Rover View Post
    I amongst many others have oil tight Rovers.
    I have never heard of such an animal..... what do you do for rust proofing?!?

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    Aussie Expat in NZ
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    Just set your idle up a bit, a few hundred RPM will have everything smooth
    Hercules: 1986 110 Isuzu 3.9 (4BD1-T)
    Brutus: 1969 109 ExMil 2a FFT (loved and lost)

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Dayboro, Qld
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    My County shook the air con compressor loose, it was rattling around with no bolts
    Also have a few rivets missing here and there, but my biggest annoyance is the vibrating bonnet and sliding windows rattling.

  6. #16
    Rangier Rover Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoSaffa View Post
    I have never heard of such an animal..... what do you do for rust proofing?!?
    Top her up with oil when she stops leaking

    I have a secret weapon for rust proofing

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Ballina, NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rangier Rover View Post
    Top her up with oil when she stops leaking
    That's just it..... if it doesn't leak, how do you know when to top it up?

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