I just bought an electric chain sharpener at ALDI. Do I use it on an oily chain, or do I degrease the chain first and use it dry,or do I use water?
Thank you W.
I can usually cut a load ( Landie Tray) with the one sharp chain, but if I hit the dirt I usually refile it with a hand file by eye, then put them on the 240v chinese grinder at home.
Works for me
I buy those Carlton chains on Ebay used once & about $5 each, then punch out a link & join up with an oregon chain spinner.
Rather than sharpen twice by eye I would put another chain on thats been bench sharpened..
Its not bad policy as I have about 5 bars, none worn out, some have cut 120 tonne now.- I burn about 7-10 tonne a year.
Running a really sharp chain & keeping the oil up is the secret to long life bars.
Any one used one of these sharpeners - were advertised on TV a few weeks back.
Are they any good?
PowerSharp sharpens chain on the saw, on the job, in seconds
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
It's actually a complete chain and sharpening system and not compatible with a conventional chain.
The cutters are totally different to a 'normal' chain.
It's aimed at the homeowner/weekend warrior that isn't overly comfortable/competent sharpening a chain and so is a great idea.
Here's a couple of threads, Fish usually calls a spade a damned shovel and there's some input from one of the Oregon engineers that designed it
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/148391.htm
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/159786.htm
I have one of these kicking around the shed. I reckon they aren't much good.
The old hand file works much better.
I also have one of these which works ok but is slow.
I have been using and sharpening chainsaws for 30 plus years with the last 21 years having a wood heater as the primary heating for my residence.
I have tried many ways with success but found I could never get a chain to cut as well as shop sharpened one. This was until I purchased one of these. This sharpens as good as the shops due to it being the same, just a cheaper version.
As for which chain to use I know a bloke who used to cut trees for a living and he would only use Stihl chain. He reckon the the others wore out faster.
My self, I recently went to the local mower shop and purchased a new non genuine bar and chain package. When I fitted it to the saw the chain was binding. I was not happy so I took it back. I decided to go genuine and wear the extra cost so went to my Stihl dealer. Cost me $5 more!
Dave.
This is a variation of the autosharp chainsaw of the 80's. Its a special chain that can be sharpened by lowering a grinding stone from above.
It is very similar to racing chain. The problem is they dull 3 times quicker than normal chain, so dont last long.
Good for the handyman for around the home.
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