Thread: 4x4 tow ropes

Originally Posted by B92 8NW

Prompted by the snatch death thread, what's a good 4x4 tow rope? The auto shop ones seem more pitched towards 2WDs and are far too short.

I have Dyneema on my winch, can you buy that in lengths with eyes/hooks appropriately spliced on both ends? Would it make a good tow rope?

Can anyone explain why using a snatch strap at low speed to tow another bogged 4x4 free is a bad idea?

I use Dyneema with eyes both ends as a tow rope....

I have found that 1/2 a snatch strap works really well as a tow strap. I cut a damaged snatch in 1/2 and had the ends sewn up etc. A 4.5m strap with a bit of give, makes it easier on both the towing vehicle and the towed vehicle, and given that they are both rolling, there are nothing like the stresses involved with a snatch of a bogged vehicle.

I want to know what's dangerous about a snatch strap breaking during snatching.

I've seen it happen on a few occasions when old frayed snatches have been used and even ones tied back together. I would rather this any day than pulling the recovery point off. Is it really that dangerous to have the weakest point located in a soft rope that harmlessly 'flicks' when breaking much like an elastic band rather than a heavy recovery point?

Thoughts?

I've got a snatch strap which only gets used if a normal tow recovery won't work. This is really only when the towing vehicle has little to no grip itself and going backwards isn't an option.

I've found that 99% of the time, a gentle tow recovery after a little ground prep (shoveling, packing, etc) will work wonders. I think defaulting to snatch straps and pedal-to-the-metal is lazy and dangerous.

For a tow rope, I use a Just Straps 8m winch extension strap or a 4m version in tight spots. They're rated (8000kg I think), seem high quality, have loops each end and pack down much smaller than most rope (though Dyneema might be fairly compact).

After each use, the strap gets hosed and then put through a rinse cycle (no detergent) in the front loader, then rolled and stored. I figure this will keep them lasting as long as possible + nice and clean to handle.

Originally Posted by PJay

Hey mate, with regards to splicing, just do it yourself. I've worked at a sailing shop for a number of years so I'd like to think I know a bit about it. Dyneema's reeeeeally easy. You can't get it wrong. It works a bit like a finger trap in the way that it tightens around the splice. It's a good idea to seize it with some whipping twine or a bit of string after so that the splice doesn't shake loose when you're not using it. Braided and 3 strand rope though... get a pro

EDIT: SWL's will be on the side of the reel when you go and buy it.

disagree. Get some odd lengths of cheap 3 strand rope and teach yourself--better get some one to teach you how to splice. It took me only about a hour to learn, and put spices--mostly eye splices in every bit of rope I could find to practice. Often a retired sailor will do this--forget who taught me, but a retired alcoholic sailor did our wire rope--I did not want to splice my own wire rope.

I did not know that you can splice braided rope.

What use to be called ski rope is very easy to splice.

Not trying to hijack this thread, but how about chain for towing-- we towed our 300TDI with blown motor as advertised in the markets with a length of chain through a pipe--the pipe acts a bit like a bar between the two trucks.

One man told us we should not tow that way but should use our snatch-strap, but I did not want to wreck our brand new unused snatch strap. He said chain has no give so could rip the arse out of our tow Car, another TDI. So is he right.

We removed the Hayman Reece tongue and fed the chain through the hole as an attachment point for that chain--knew not to use the tow ball.

There are lots of options as it is towing not recovery. The biggest issue is knowing how to tow and not doing stupid things in the vehicle being towed like hard braking, riding brakes, handbrake or in gear. It happens.
The rope itself is not really an issue, just how it is attached. Of course cheap unrated rope will break. Avoid shock loading.
As Brian has said old long lifting slings are good. Personally I use old Rescue Rope (Static Kern-mantel) rated at 3200kgs with figure eight knots on the bite each end attached correctly. If you do go down this line, cut into lengths unsuitable for use as rescue rope.

Originally Posted by JohnF

Not trying to hijack this thread, but how about chain for towing-- we towed our 300TDI with blown motor as advertised in the markets with a length of chain through a pipe--the pipe acts a bit like a bar between the two trucks.

One man told us we should not tow that way but should use our snatch-strap, but I did not want to wreck our brand new unused snatch strap. He said chain has no give so could rip the arse out of our tow Car, another TDI. So is he right.

We removed the Hayman Reece tongue and fed the chain through the hole as an attachment point for that chain--knew not to use the tow ball.

John,
I will not use chain, even rated lifting chain for towing or recovery. It would be an absolute last resort. Even though I am competent to inspect lifting gear. If you have ever seen chain links (even rated) after being shock loaded you may change your mind. Shock loading chain elongates the links and they can let go suddenly. I have seen such occur in vehicle recovery and even lifting. Emphasizes the importance or regular close inspections. If as a last resort I would be checking frequently.
Also have a look at the damage when people dont know how to tow and chain gets dragged along the road.
Yes same can happen to rope or slings but there is generally a lot less projectile damage than a chain.
I would NOT use wire lifting slings either, when they go they will take a head off.