Thread: Ride on mowers - advice needed

Originally Posted by rick130

.....
A little tip on the OHV B&S engines.

They use a decompression valve for starting, but if the tappet adjustment has blown out a little (and it doesn't take much) it won't work.
The symptom is slow cranking with the stater stalling at TDC, just as if the battery is half dead or there's a crook connection, crook solenoid or starter motor.
Adjust the tappets and 9 times out of ten off she'll start.
The other one time you need a new cam

Rick, you're a lifesaver. I've got exactly these symptoms, so at least I've got something to got at now.

.003"-.005" inlet
.005"-.007" exhaust

IIRC I just set mine at .005" for both and you'll need a torx key and ring spanner, can't recall what number it is.

Originally Posted by Tank

I know you want an Auto box, but may I suggest a Cox mower with the cone and disc drive, had mine for 10 years now and no discernible wear on discs or cone. If you want to mow nice soft lawn go for the Bar type cutters, but don't use them for cutting anything tall/tufted or woody because they don't have the inertia in the blade. The Cox has a large disc with replaceable blades on its outer edge, it's this large round disk that gives the Cox the inertia needed to cut tough scrubby paddocks.
The rear axle is solid so it is extremely hard to lose traction on a steep slope, unlike the differential action of most lawn orientated mowers. the drive system is simplicity itself, you have a solid axle shaft between the wheels with 2 inboard discs with a taper on their inner sides. In between these 2 discs is a friction material Cone which is pushed sideways to make contact with one of the Discs, one disc provides forward motion and the other disc provides reverse with push of a pedal on the running board.
As I said, had mine for 10 years now it has the 15hp B/S and in that time the only thing I have changed is the oil and filter, give a Cox a look at they are tough and reliable, no I am not getting paid for this comment, just networking, Regards Frank.
P.S. mine loves rocks and sticks

If you have any sort of hill then stay well clear of cone drive transmissions.

Sorry Frank but over the years I have seen hundreds of these low priced over sized domestic mowers sold to unsuspecting customers that I have had to go out and tell them that they don't get warrenty coverage as they are using it on more than a 5 deg slope or they were towing a small trailer with their chainsaw in it.

The best I have seen is the JD TX series mowers, either with the Kohler or B & S V twin and in a 36" or 42" deck and they normally are around the same money as a Husky.

The Huskies are Ok but are just a bit soft and expensive to fix and a little harder to fix and maintain so service and repairs are a bit more expensive in labour as well as parts.

If you are fairly serious about not wanting to buy anything for 10 years then go semi or full commercial such as a Ferris, Scag or Bad Boy in Zero turns or Toro or John Deere in the mini tractor style.

The Cox and any other domestic ride on is good for a 1/2 acre flat block but Frank has either been very lucky or he looks after it better than he thinks he does al though I must say that I have seen less Cox mowers than other brands which are more well known but shall remain nameless for this post.

As far as sticks and stuff goes, the more you hit the more blades you change so keep that in mind and sent the kids out picking up sticks before you start to mow.

All I can say is it's all reletve with heavy mowing equipment, the more you spend on the purchase and maintaining it means the longer you will have it.

I have seen $100,000+ machines that last 2 to 3 years due to abuse and $50,000 machines doing the same job that last 10 years with minimal major work done on them due to careful operators and purchasing the correct machine for the job in the first place.

It doesn't have to cost a lot but it just has to be suited to your terrain and what you want it to do now and in the future.

If I can be any help PM me and I will give you my phone number so we can have a chat instead.

Cheers Casper

Rick 130 is on the money, with those brands too and about the OHC tappet adjustment.

On the Vtwins if they hunt alot or you get a lot of fuming in the aircleaner adjust the clearances as this generally solves the problem.

Most of the mini tractors (I call them) are easier to service laying on their backs, just make sure you remove the battery first as they can leak everywhere.

I just use a block and tackle in the shed on the front and up they go, and you can generally get to everything.

If you need to do belts or pulleys, release the deck first then lift it up and everything it there in front of you, not too much loosing skin that way.

Cheers Casper

When we bought our 4 acre block about 12 years ago, I went mower shopping. Was looking at what seemed to me like crappy little hand mowers with seats, starting at about $3,000.
I went to the machinery auctions and bought a Kubota 18hp 3-cylinder diesel with hydrostatic transmission, 4-wheel steer (close to zero turn), shaft drive and 48" deck. Paid $1900 for it at the auction, spent a further $1,000 putting new spindle bearings and blades in the deck, giving it a good birthday and replacing a few bits that must have walked from the auction yard. I priced the same mower brand new at the Lardner field days about 5 years ago; $24,000 plus the deck (about another 3K)
This is a fantastic machine. Parts are very expensive. The cylinder head developed a crack about 4 years ago, could not get it repaired for love nor money. Bought a complete 2nd-hand motor from an importer in Melbourne (apparently the japs have to turn over machinery periodically as well as cars, this was reportedly out of a rice harvester). Complete motor including fuel system $2,000 If another major component died I would replace it and keep this thing going as long as possible.
I mow about an acre and a half, takes 2 hours. The kubota sails through it wet or dry, long or short. The block includes one steep section which is no obstacle.

I would recommend Greenfield or Cox ride-ons or some of the older Rovers. Avoid any of the cheaper Husky, Toro, John deere machines, same goes for any of the big box hardware machines.
I work as a small engine mechanic, and find the cheap pressed metal machines just fall apart. The cox and greenfield units are great and will keep going for a long time if you maintain them. There are more components to adjust but everything is individually replaceable. Most of the machines that use hydrostatic drives will require less maintenance to keep them going, but once something in the transaxle breaks you might as well buy a new mower, due to the costs involved.
My family had always bought Cox mowers to use on a hilly 2-1/2 acre block and they would usualy last about 10-15year. You really can't beat the solid drive axle either The latest machine we bought was a Husky and it is a bucket of poo, Wish we still had the old Cox.

If you buy a ride on which has bar blades, make sure you convert it to swingback blades, you will save a lot of money not having to replace jackshaft housings whenever you hit a firm object.

As previosly mentioned, the life of the machine depends A LOT on the person operating it. If you look after the machine, it will look after you

Cheers Paul

Originally Posted by paulthepilot_5

I would recommend Greenfield or Cox ride-ons or some of the older Rovers. Avoid any of the cheaper Husky, Toro, John deere machines, same goes for any of the big box hardware machines.
I work as a small engine mechanic, and find the cheap pressed metal machines just fall apart. The cox and greenfield units are great and will keep going for a long time if you maintain them. There are more components to adjust but everything is individually replaceable. Most of the machines that use hydrostatic drives will require less maintenance to keep them going, but once something in the transaxle breaks you might as well buy a new mower, due to the costs involved.
My family had always bought Cox mowers to use on a hilly 2-1/2 acre block and they would usualy last about 10-15year. You really can't beat the solid drive axle either The latest machine we bought was a Husky and it is a bucket of poo, Wish we still had the old Cox.

If you buy a ride on which has bar blades, make sure you convert it to swingback blades, you will save a lot of money not having to replace jackshaft housings whenever you hit a firm object.

As previosly mentioned, the life of the machine depends A LOT on the person operating it. If you look after the machine, it will look after you

Cheers Paul

Yes full blades are a pain, mate just had to fix the broken housing on his Husky when it didn't like a cricket ball, nothing like inertia of a big flywheel on the bottom instead of big long blades

We recently purchased a Grillo Climber as we have 10acres and some very steep slopes. Previously had a Simplicity but it wasn't up to the task and was a pain to repair. Grillo is expensive but you get what you pay for. It's built like a Kaymar bar, very solid, quality construction and you sit in it rather than on it. Copes with grass up to 2 meters tall, wet grass and steep slopes both up and down and cross slope work. Also very economic on fuel ESP as it's a twin B&S motor. The local DSE in the Otways area are getting the same machines for their slope ability. Good brakes, tractor tyres and locking diff. My wife was the one who researched and chose it!
Hope this adds to your database of possibilities.
PaulB.