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Thread: Jag in the demo derby.

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoges View Post
    Being in a car whilst it was totalled in a matter of 2-3 seconds is an experience I'd not care to repeat...and it was not a "derby"...
    Why you would put yourself in harm's way to risk internal organ / skeletal / whiplash damage as well as a risk of being incinerated if the unthinkable happened is beyond me...
    It's something I want to do before I'm to old and full of excuses of why not to.

    I would think if you are prepared, and tense, the impact would not be as bad. A neck brace, helmet and 4 point harness will also make it easier.

    I still realise I'm going to be sore come march 11.


    Andy

  2. #12
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    Heres the rules for those considering tips on modifications

    COMPETITION RULES FOR OPEN DEMOLITION DERBY
    BE ADVISED TO READ THE FOLLOWING RULES CAREFULLY- ALL RULES WILL BE STRICTLY ENFORCED.
    All vehicles must be in standard condition except for modifications allowed in these specifications.
    1a: No non pillar-less vehicles. (Eg, No Early Celicas with No B-pillar)
    Note: Large 4 cylinders (i.e. Magna wagons or sedans) are allowed.
    b: No full chassis, No V8 vehicles allowed
    c: Locked diffs or limited slip diffs optional
    d: Standard car tyres only. NO tractor, race or ice tyres permitted
    2a: All external chrome work and protruding objects must be removed (including all cast metals that hold blinker lights).
    b: All glass must be removed, NOT broken in.
    c: All interior linings and handles must be removed.
    d: All cars are to be cleaned out (no loose objects)
    3a: All doors must be secured by standard chains of 6mm or 8 mm thickness (no wire or door lock mechanisms only)
    b: The driver’s door and off side passengers (the door behind the driver) are to be completely welded
    c: A 1/4” (6mm) metal plate may be slid down the window channel of the driver’s door only. The plate is not to be protruding
    past the height of the door skin.
    d: Boot and bonnet must be secured, using standard chain of no longer than 40mm links and 6mm or 8mm in thickness.
    e: No bolting, welding or strengthening of any bonnet, boot lid, mudguard, bumper bar or seam.
    f: Mudguards and wheel arches are not to be cut away or bent.
    g: No tow bars.
    h: Window mesh in front of drivers door optional.
    4a: No engine modifications allowed.
    b: Engine and gearbox mounts may be welded but original rubber engine mounts must be retained (NO SOLID MOUNTS).
    c: If cutting a hole in the floor for a floor shift, it is not to be any larger than the minimum necessary to shift gears
    5a: Battery may be relocated to the passenger’s front floor, covered with RUBBER MATTING and be securely fastened to the
    floor with metal strips.
    b: Tail shaft chains at gearbox end (front)
    CARS ARE TO USE ONE 12 PLATE CAR BATTERY - NO TRUCK BATTERIES ALLOWED – NO BIGGER THAN 70
    6a: Radiators must be of original type and in original position.
    b: Fan blades may be removed.
    c: No additional heater tanks, radiators or top-up bottles.
    7a: Fuel Tanks - If original tanks are not used, the alternative tank must be a steel “jerry can”, which must be secured
    to the middle of the rear seat on the floor in a safety cradle.
    b: No plastic bottles permitted.
    c: The original fuel line must be used from the engine bay to the entrance of the fuel tank where an approved one (1) metre
    (maximum length) flexible fuel hose may be used. Professionally constructed – no plastic tanks.
    8a: Driver’s seat must be reinforced either by rope strapping or chain between the centre pillars and behind the seat.
    b: One bar from pillar to pillar (centre pillars) must be used. Bar must be at least 40mm. Square tubing must be at
    least 50mm. Plates not less than 100mm x 100mm are to be welded on each end and bolted to pillars (not welded) by
    at least two (2) bolts each side through pillars and plates. Bolts must be no less than 6mm thick and bolted from
    outside inwards.
    c: One floor to roof bar is allowed in middle of car (in case of rollover)
    9a: Approved seat belts must be fitted to the vehicle - ie: three or four-point harness.
    b: No other types of seat belts are acceptable - NO RETRACTABLE SEATBELTS ARE ALLOWED.
    c: Belts must be in good condition - ie: no frayed edges.
    10a: Car numbers must be in large lettering on both sides of the vehicle. Preferably, both front doors.
    b: The driver’s door must be painted red with a large white cross to be a contender in event. No cross = No start. If
    car is red, door must be painted white with yellow cross.
    c: All sign writing will be inspected. Anything deemed to be in bad taste by the officials must be removed.
    11a: All vehicles must be fitted with a white flag of 300mm x 300mm attached to a piece of 1/4” (6mm) wooden dowel (no
    bigger) so that the flag is no lower than 300mm above the roof line of the vehicle.
    b: The dowel is to be attached, with tape to the right hand pillar within reach of the driver.
    c: The driver is to break the flag off as soon as his/her vehicle is immobilized, indicating that the vehicle is no longer in the
    event and no longer a target.
    12 a: Any foam cushioning must be fully covered. No rope to be used in car apart from item 8a.
    13: In case of rollover if vehicle is not affected by leaking fuel the car will be reinstated on it’s wheels and allowed to
    continue in the Demolition Derby
    14: All brakes must be in original working order. ABSOLUTELY NO MODIFICATIONS ALLOWED
    15: Drivers doors MUST be welded
    SPOT CHECKS WILL BE DONE FOR 1ST and 2ND ON COMPLETION OF DEMOLITION DERBY
    THE CONTROLLING OFFICIALS HAVE FINAL SAY

    Andy

  3. #13
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    if they'll let you take one of the sports helmet cams with you...

    post the vid.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    if they'll let you take one of the sports helmet cams with you...

    post the vid.
    Definitely.

    Heres some modifications that I am going to do which I think are allowed. Please add to the list if you have any more suggestions.

    Grooved tyres (anyone got a tyre grooves they can lend me?)
    Welded diff
    Welded shocks at full height
    No fan
    Bypassed radiation with straight glycol - will double check on bypassing due to rule 4a and 6.
    Doors with concrete (check with rule 3e)
    Bypass trannie cooler
    Reverse camera mounted on roof, feeding wireless to my iPad mounted on the dash....
    Different steering wheel with forklift knob
    Chained down engine, box and tail shaft.
    Removing ac and other unused parts under the bonnet.
    Exhaust cut off after headers.
    Spare tyre bolted down in boot, full of water.
    Foam pillow mounted in steering wheel centre, and other places around interior.

    Andy

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrew e View Post
    Definitely.

    Heres some modifications that I am going to do which I think are allowed. Please add to the list if you have any more suggestions.

    Grooved tyres (anyone got a tyre grooves they can lend me?)
    Welded diff
    Welded shocks at full height not worth it they will snap off and wont get passed
    No fan
    Bypassed radiation with straight glycol - will double check on bypassing due to rule 4a and 6.
    Doors with concrete (check with rule 3e)
    Bypass trannie cooler
    Reverse camera mounted on roof, feeding wireless to my iPad mounted on the dash.... will fail on loose items
    Different steering wheel with forklift knob
    Chained down engine, box and tail shaft. should be OK providing you weld a loose lenght of chain from the engine mount to the chassis (think along the lines of if you unbolted the mounting plate you could still remove the engine)
    Removing ac and other unused parts under the bonnet. should be ok
    Exhaust cut off after headers.
    Spare tyre bolted down in boot, full of water.
    Foam pillow mounted in steering wheel centre, and other places around interior.you shouldnt need it in the steering wheel but down beside the drivers door and the seat is a good thing

    Andy

    Good luck.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoges View Post
    Being in a car whilst it was totalled in a matter of 2-3 seconds is an experience I'd not care to repeat...and it was not a "derby"...
    Why you would put yourself in harm's way to risk internal organ / skeletal / whiplash damage as well as a risk of being incinerated if the unthinkable happened is beyond me...
    Because its fun

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoges View Post
    Why you would put yourself in harm's way to risk internal organ / skeletal / whiplash damage as well as a risk of being incinerated if the unthinkable happened is beyond me...
    Quote Originally Posted by rovercare View Post
    Because its fun
    Because you can....
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  8. #18
    roverfan is offline AULRO Holiday Reward Points Winner!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoges View Post
    Being in a car whilst it was totalled in a matter of 2-3 seconds is an experience I'd not care to repeat...and it was not a "derby"...
    Why you would put yourself in harm's way to risk internal organ / skeletal / whiplash damage as well as a risk of being incinerated if the unthinkable happened is beyond me...
    It's just a bit of fun, most of the impacts aren't at breakneck speeds.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrew e View Post
    Not much. A bit of rust, tired interior. I saved it from the crusher at a scrap metal place, to give it a slightly better life.
    Me thinks it would have looked better in my shed & not totalled

    Gary

  10. #20
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    Fill the main fuel tank with water if they dont care about the tank fill it with cement
    wear heavy gloves, boots and overalls, shinguards under the overalls.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

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