So, almost 3 years ago I bought my first Land Rover, a new D3 TDV6 with a few extras, & very happy with it I am as well.
Ever since I have wanted a Series Landie to play with & as more of a bush basher. Something without all the electronic trickery that I can fool around with & do up a bit.
Because I live in a remote area this was always a "one day" type thing though I kept looking at older Landies on Carsales etc, then, a couple of months ago I saw a Series Landie sitting in a front yard here in Doomadgee.
After some enquiries I discovered a young lad had bought it to do up after he finished boarding School.
So I made him an offer, Tomorrow I will be the proud owner of a 1972, petrol, ex army Land Rover Series 3?
It runs, has no oil leaks (or no oil), mostly every thing works, needs a lot of cosmetic & minor work & is a cool bit O' gear.
The bad bit is I know B/all about Series Land Rovers, I'm not even sure it is a Series 3, what size the motor is or much else - but it sure will be fun finding out.
Another small win is that being a remote area we don't have to get Road Worthies to register a vehicle up here, it has to be in a road worthy condition & the Police have a look to make sure the lights & stuff work but that is it.
Of course SWMBO has said that's it! No more Land Rovers. If it leaks oil on the driveway I'm history & I'm to pretend I don't know her while driving it.
congratulations, no oil leaks, I'd like to see that.
I know burger all about old landies as well but I love owning one. They are a vehicle that is easy to learn mechanic though, well simple stuff anyway.
My wife always says she will go for a spin in Lucky, but always find something else to do when the time comes. Her loss I say, enjoy the first day it's a special one. But every day in a series is kinda like that.
That sounds like a late Series 2a,is it a 4 cylinder? if so it is a 2a with the headlights in the guards similar to the series 3 but it will have a steel mesh grille,if it has a fairly straight gearlever it was originally fitted with the first of the all syncro gearboxes, but may by now have a standard earlier 2a box (crash 1st & 2nd,syncro 3rd & 4th) they are a simple and easy to repair vehicle but just be aware that they have unboosted drum brakes which are sooo different to boosted disc brakes, so, your braking distance and effort will be greatly increased,BTW.top speed is about 90/95 comfortably.
I have a 68 model 2a.
I would suggest that you have a look at the REMLR section of this website (down towards the bottom) as that is devoted to the ex-military (Aust) Landrovers and you should possibly be able to find it old army rego number from the REMLR.com site as it has a list of vehicle chassis numbers against their army rego numbers the chassis number is on the left rear of the vehicle stamped in just above the rear upper bush of the rear spring hanger on the flat section where it joins the chassis, it should start with 253*******suffix letter (d or G) this should also be stamped on a 75mm x 100mm plate in the left hand side of the dash/firewall
cheers
PS.if it has a plastic grille and a 6 cylinder motor with the instruments directly infront of the driver it is a Series 3 (2/2a instruments are 2 x in centre of the dash)
See, I'm already getting educated in Series tec.
It must be a 2A. The instruments are in the middle of what passes for a dash along with the key. It also has a mesh grill which looks like it would let a boulder through & a 4 cylinder motor.
I don't recall what the gear shifter was like but will check it out tomorrow when I pick it up. I may have to re-learn to double clutch again, I have not done that since 77 when I had an old F100.
I might have trouble keeping up with SWMBO in the Discovery at 90kph, she will think that's funny, she usually tells me to slow down.
Really looking forward to this.
Jonesfam
OK! it's a 2a, probably a headlights in the guard jobbie, just before the model change to Series 3, a little bit of info for you, I run Penrite 20w-50w Everyday driving oil in the motor,but any good quality 20/40 or 50 multigrade will do, Gearbox/Transfer/2xDiffs/and Swivel Hubs as well as the Steering box & relay take EP-80/90 oil,standard "Dot4" brake fluid
There is a really good workshop book on Series 2/2a/3 4 cylinder vehicles printed by Haynes publishing, Book 314, they are available in Aust. as I saw a copy on the shelf at British Off Road it is a good book written in plain english with repairs done with standard tools with occasional reference to special tools. mine has been my "Bible" for 20+years most parts like shackle bushes and steering tie-rod ends are readily available.
Dash instruments read as:upper,2x power sockets + & -,wiper switch,single speed 1/2 flick,P/Head light switch,pos 1 park/tail,pos 2 head,dipper on floor between pedals (standard army location),far right upper,dash illumination, Ign key & start, lower right,choke cable.
Instruments:Left,water temp,fuel,charge light, Right, Speedo,oil light,G,High beam B,Choke/Cold start Y, there could be plstic plugs in a couple of spare holes on the left of the dash.
I learnt to drive & do mechanical stuff on a 1971 S2a.
Hot tip would be....if the steering wheel gets wobbly check if the lock flanges on the washer below the nut in the middle of the steering wheel have been folded up around the nut.
I didn't.....
the steering wheel came off!
Didn't crash, but one of my mates was banned from ever riding in my car again.
If you were aiming for something "without all the electronic trickery", then you've done good lad! I have a 1970 S2a, albeit with a Holden 202 in it, and love it. Very rewarding to drive and just puts a grin on my face every time I get behind the wheel.
I've just ordered a new Defender 90, but really hope I can keep the S2a hidden somewhere out of the wife's sight for a while. I haven't even picked up the Deefer and already I can see the dilemma coming up of which to take out on a drive on any given day. (Unless it's raining, then the choice will be very obvious!)
Looking forward to some photo's and more details. Heaps of friendly advice and help on here. Good luck.
Cheers
John B
I finally got to pick up S2A.
She is a bit rough & needs a fair bit of work but that's what I wanted.
I have a heap of questions, but I will put those on the appropriate Sub-Site.
Anyway I will upload a couple of pics which I hope come out alright.
Jonesfam
BTW The wife loves it, she is a strange woman though.
Nice straight looking late 2a,just needs a little drab olive on the yellow canopy and roof and it would pass as a GS with windowed hardtop of which there were a few
I if that chassis number is 23540246H then it's Army Rego No was 180-893
Killer Wabbit!
), mostly every thing works, needs a lot of cosmetic & minor work & is a cool bit O' gear.
the chassis number is on the left rear of the vehicle stamped in just above the rear upper bush of the rear spring hanger on the flat section where it joins the chassis, it should start with 253*******suffix letter (d or G) this should also be stamped on a 75mm x 100mm plate in the left hand side of the dash/firewall
it is a good book written in plain english with repairs done with standard tools with occasional reference to special tools. mine has been my "Bible" for 20+years
most parts like shackle bushes and steering tie-rod ends are readily available.
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