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Thread: 240V alternator question

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    Bearman's Avatar
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    240V alternator question

    A quick question for any sparkie on here. I have a 3.5KVA alternator which I acquired some years ago to reassemble. It was in pieces and supposedly ran good but needed a bearing on the end of the rotor shaft. With a cyclone on the brew up this way I decided to assemble it. All was good until I fitted the end plate with the 10A plugs and found 2 wires that have been disconnected. They both come from the field coils, 1 is white with a red stripe and the other is white with a green stripe. I am presuming that the one with the red stripe goes to the A or active side of the 10A plug and the one with the green stripe goes to the N or neutral side of the plug. The screws on both these terminals are loose, indication that is where they came from. Am I correct? Thanks in advance.
    Cheers......Brian
    1985 110 V8 County
    1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)

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    Depends on the type of alternator. Does it have a separate automatic voltage regulator (AVR)? This would be a small black box with some wires coming out of it. If it has one, then there will need to be wires connected for the voltage sensing circuit - which could pick up from the back of one of the outlets. If it has no AVR, then it could be a cheaper droop style which will produce maximum volts at no load, and decrease as load is applied. Typically you may see up to 260 volts with no load and down to around 220 volts at full load. Again these wires you have may connect directly to the outlet, but more likely it will be there is something missing between the outlets and the field windings. There could have been an AVR in between that converts the 240 volts to a lower DC output for the field. The 240 volts is used as both sensing and drive for the field, and regulates a DC supply to those wires. Could be in the range of 6 to 18 volts DC - again, depends on the alternator.

    Try this - run the machine with those field wires disconnected and measure the voltage at the outlets - you should have some 'residual voltage' and see maybe 20 or 30 volts AC. If you get this, get a 6 volt lantern battery - the type that is used in the old dolphin torches with the spring connectors on it, and with the machine running, briefly connect this to the field wires while monitoring the output. If it jumps up significantly, you have DC field windings, and it will need an AVR. You will have to guess at the polarity to start with - if you get nothing one way, reverse the polarity and try again.

    Hope that makes some sense...

    If you have some details from a data plate, and the manufacturer I may be able to help more.

    Oh, and a quick disclaimer - if your not comfortable or familiar with testing and repairing mains powered equipment, please don't try testing or fixing this yourself... I don't want to hear that someone got hurt or worse trying this.

    Safety first please.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

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    Bearman's Avatar
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    There is a round thing like a capacitor that is already hooked up to wires from the coils separate from the 2 wires I am talking about. Guess that must be the AVR. Got a few jobs to do on the engine before I will be firing it up so thinking I will hook them up to where I reckon they go and try a cheapie drill or something like that on it and see what happens Thanks Gav.
    Cheers......Brian
    1985 110 V8 County
    1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)

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    Sounds like it could be a capacitor excited unit, in which case those wires could well go where you suggested. Run a few tests, take a few pics and get back to us, and I may be able to confirm it for you.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

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    Probably be a couple of days before I get the engine to running condition so will get back to you then Gav. Thanks.
    Cheers......Brian
    1985 110 V8 County
    1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)

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