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Thread: Carrying a spare battery

  1. #11
    Join Date
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    Having decided to get at least one new battery to replace one or both of the Delphi Freedom YGD 100860 (110 Ah / 800CCA) “original LR” batteries in my Defender Td5 County Station Wagon 110 (2005), I’ve been searching the internet and reading about what I might buy.

    The information I have from various forums and many threads) about a suitable battery is, basically, "get the biggest you can fit in and one with a high CCA rating".

    I’m looking at, among others, two different Varta Silver Dynamics (110 Ah, 830 CCA // and 110 Ah 920 CCA). However, I'm also getting information from a seller’s site that these are "not suitable for my vehicle". I don't understand why. If there’s space for them in my LR, why wouldn’t they be suitable?

    I’m also looking at Numax, Yuasa and Exide Excel or Exide Maaxima.

  2. #12
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    Just a heads up with marine batteries, I had 2 of the batteries pictured purchased about 3 months apart and both died about the 15 month mark.

    They were purchased on the advice of the specialist battery retailer as being a good compromise between cranking and deep cycle and able to handle vibrations. The perfect battery for a dual battery setup, except they can not handle heat. Apparently they get a bit hot in the defender battery box. The manufacturer will now only cover warranty for marine applications.




    By the way, both batteries were maintained and as far as I know never cycled harshly.

    woody

  3. #13
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    Just a heads up on fitting dual batteries using a well known product. Tim, from Traxide Tronics, is definitely the man to talk to on this forum, but this may give you a bit of an idea. FWIW, I have an ARK power pak, which I strap in the back of my D2. I have a SB1 smart start battery isolator [ yet to be fitted, been lazy] you will see from the diagrams the set up, also you can fit a push button switch for start assist from the 2nd battery [ a deep cycle battery]. The 2nd battery can be charged by solar panels,as well, and the beauty of a battery pak is the battery can be removed from the vehicle, along with the solar panels, if you want to take your frig away from the vehicle. [ Anderson plugs are sold from the site shop] Also the power pak can be charged from a 240/12 V mains connection. Just a thought, Bob


    http://www.redarc.com.au/images/uplo...ion_Manual.pdf
    I’m pretty sure the dinosaurs died out when they stopped gathering food and started having meetings to discuss gathering food

    A bookshop is one of the only pieces of evidence we have that people are still thinking

  4. #14
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    I've recently bought a new deca battery. The old one lasted 9 years. It was a 1130cca so pretty big; it was used almost every day though. This was coupled to a cheap $50 bigw battery through a volt sensative relay and they were happy as larry together.

    Being used every day helps a lot though.
    This was in a late classic - so heavy on the battery too.

  5. #15
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    Feb 2010
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    Bob,

    Keep a careful eye on the battery in your Ark Powerpack! My first Powerpack killed a battery before it's first birthday, swiftly returned to place of purchase and replaced under warranty (they would not replace the battery though).

    The one that replaced it did the same thing at 15 months.

    The 240v "smart charger" was not supplying the correct voltage or current to my batteries after such a short time, it's now used as a battery box, charged via a 10a Ctek 240v charger when in the garage at home, or via my SC80 in the Range Rover when on the move.

    Cheers
    Keithy

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by bob10 View Post
    Just a heads up on fitting dual batteries using a well known product. Tim, from Traxide Tronics, is definitely the man to talk to on this forum, but this may give you a bit of an idea. FWIW, I have an ARK power pak, which I strap in the back of my D2. I have a SB1 smart start battery isolator [ yet to be fitted, been lazy] you will see from the diagrams the set up, also you can fit a push button switch for start assist from the 2nd battery [ a deep cycle battery]. The 2nd battery can be charged by solar panels,as well, and the beauty of a battery pak is the battery can be removed from the vehicle, along with the solar panels, if you want to take your frig away from the vehicle. [ Anderson plugs are sold from the site shop] Also the power pak can be charged from a 240/12 V mains connection. Just a thought, Bob


    http://www.redarc.com.au/images/uplo...ion_Manual.pdf
    bob10 (and maybe Tim/Traxide?) - can I assume your system could also be used in conjunction with Tim's USI 160 isolator in lieu of the REDARC - with of course suitably heavy wire connections via the Anderson plug to the ARK power pak. I also have an original version of the ARK, with a pretty HD and new battery inside and am keen to be able to use this for camping trips - and perhaps even even as winching support in an emergency.
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  7. #17
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    Hi Gavin and in theory, yes you could set up to use the Arkpak as additional battery in a winch setup.

    And while my USI-160’s operating features would give you some additional advantages that would make this kind of setup more viable, there are a couple of major requirements.

    The first you have already covered in that you would need to run some major sized cabling from the cranking battery, via the USI-160, to where you have the Arkpak mounted.

    The other is you would need to rewire the Arkpak with the same major sized cabling and you would need to replace the Arkpak’s 50 amp Anderson plug with at least a 175 amp Anderson plug.

    So again, yes you could set up to use the rear battery while winching but it would be at an expensive set up cost.

  8. #18
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    Thanks for replies to my question.

  9. #19
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    May 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keithy P38 View Post
    Bob,

    Keep a careful eye on the battery in your Ark Powerpack! My first Powerpack killed a battery before it's first birthday, swiftly returned to place of purchase and replaced under warranty (they would not replace the battery though).

    The one that replaced it did the same thing at 15 months.

    The 240v "smart charger" was not supplying the correct voltage or current to my batteries after such a short time, it's now used as a battery box, charged via a 10a Ctek 240v charger when in the garage at home, or via my SC80 in the Range Rover when on the move.

    Cheers
    Keithy

    Thanks, Keithy, certainly good to know . When I get my system set up, my intention is to wire up the vehicle from the start battery, thru an isolator, to the back of the vehicle , as per a normal 2nd battery set up. Anderson plugs in the back will connect the pak to the charging system, and I can run my fridge from the 12V outlet. With this set up, I can remove the battery PAK, and connect to a solar panel, away from the vehicle. By using this method, [ the main isolator switch for the PAK is 'ON'] the smart charge system is isolated. Same with solar, except I will need an external voltage regulator. Any way, that is plan A. At the moment, I charge thru the smart charge from 240/12. That gives me at least 5 days power for the fridge. And Gavin, I think Tim answered your question very well, just one thing. If your PAK is the early one, like mine, it wont have an Anderson plug, as you no doubt are aware . Cheers, Bob
    I’m pretty sure the dinosaurs died out when they stopped gathering food and started having meetings to discuss gathering food

    A bookshop is one of the only pieces of evidence we have that people are still thinking

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