Thread: Freelander, need help

I cannot provide any advice on the 1800, but you should also be asking questions about the reliability of the drive train.

Pre 2000 MY freelanders have a problem with their drive train. Front and rear differentials have different ratios to improve drivability. In the early cars (pre 2000 MY I believe) this difference was too great meaning the viscous coupling has to constantly work harder than it should do to account for the difference in rotational speed between the front and rear wheels. As a consequence it fails and locks up, no longer providing the required slip. This causes transmission windup if the tyres cannot slip a little to relieve the stress. If not detected this will result in the intermediate reduction drive (IRD) unit failing and maybe the rear diff.

The new price of a IRD is about $2200 and the viscous coupling about $1800. Neither can be rebuilt.

Something to think about - I wish I knew about this before I bought my Frealander.

Gazz

Hi Gazz, what year model is yours, this is a late 1999 model, could this have had the problem soved? Is there any way to prevent the problem happening, is there a mod that con be done?

There is a 2000 model 5 door with 98000km for $1000 more, would this be a better buy? Matt

Firstly.... Don't get the 1.8 Petrol, the head gasket is the symptom rather than the cause. The other thing that it will do is drop the liners.

Essentially, the layout of the cooling system means that it can be prone to cooking itself. There has been a mod which involves moving the thermostat housing but even the later engines have been prone to failure.

To compund all of this, the supply of parts is now going to be hard with Rover going POP! Apparently, the dealers over here have been told that they are being limited to 1 head per week but they're getting 3-4 cars in per week :!:

The IRD... Yes there is a mod, it's fit a later model IRD. :?

I don't know if you read any of my other posts on the problems that Gazz is having but essentially what he has just said is correct. The early models eat tyres for breakfast. e.g. Tyres that would last for 120k on a Disco or RaRo will only last for 25k on an early Freebee thanks to the "Scrubbing".

IMO, the best of the bunch is either an early XEDi manual or a TD4 Auto (the clutches on the late models have had problems!!!).

If you're OK with the tyre wear and/or only do a limited mileage, the early diesel will be fine. If you want to use it off-road, the TD4 Auto is by far the best combination.

Just make sure they've been serviced properly. The cambelt changes on them are an expensive service so some people skip this :!: :!: :!:

HTH

Mark.

Hi Camel Landy.

By the sounds of it the 1.8L Petrol is awful, but i know people who have one and they have had a trouble free run with theirs, no problems at all. This is why I am asking, are they the lucky ones?

I have sent you a pm CL. Matt

I think I would listen to Mark - his advice has been spot on and he helped me diagnose my problem before I had started dismantling - therefore I knew what to look for. My car is now 2wd until I can get the parts I need or the IRD gives up the ghost completely.

My car is a 98 XEDI - I would try to spring for the extra $ and get a 2000 or later model - shop around they are around if you are patient.

Re the 1800 and Rover going belly up, I don't think this will be a problem. Australia has a law that parts must be supplied for 10 years and if Landrover cannot source its Rover parts from what is left of Rover they will have to get them elsewhere or Landrover Australia will run the risk of substantial fines - you will recall that when Daewoo went bust, Holden has provided this undertaking and Toyota is covering Diahatsu.

If you do go for a pre 2000 car I would simply add a viscous coupling check every few thousand km to your maintenance schedule. (Lift one back wheel off the ground with the car in gear and if you can turn the wheel by hand, noting it will be hard to turn, the viscous coupling is OK. If you cannot turn the wheel, the VC is likely frozen. When driving, the signs are excessive tyre wear and when reversing on full steering lock, there is load on the engine as if a handbrake is half on. This is an indicator of transmission wind up because on lock, the front wheels are turning at a much different rate to the rears and a U/s Vuscous Coupling cannot compensate.

Concur with Marks comments overall.

However the Freelanders are a great vehicle to drive and certainly the diesel runs really well on the road - jumps over hills in a single bound - just don't go in the traffic light sprints.

Gazz

Thanks Gaz, I am looking at a late 1.8L, we cant afford a diesel, so the 1.8 is the only option. I would prefer a diesel, but being mechanically minded and being very friendly with my mechanic (he lets me use his hoist and workshop and charges me $50 to keep and eye on me and help when needed) I should be ok, i will just be meticulous with the maintenance as you say. I am still looking, and have taken yours, plus marks info on board. Thanks, Matt

Hi, i was just on ebay and found a 2000 model 5 door, its a 1.8L still but, this should be new enought to have the problem with the drive train fixed. Is this right? Matt

Spend the $15,000 on a Rangie :roll: 8)