Thread: Anti Land Rover Mechanics. Lazy? Ignorant? Other?

I have heard of lots of problems with modern LR, some of them being brand new.
I never liked the early land cruiser, after being used to LR, it was like getting in to a horse and cart .
I wouldn’t have bought a LR in a fit, but I was asked to take this one for a drive (I was sucked in)
And I had to buy it.
As always I never buy anything that doesn’t need fixing and it needs fixing, i will see how I go

Yes I know this is a very old thread but for the amusement of fellow LR owners, I thought I'd share my most recent experience of dealing with one of the "expert" mechanics in the area, I have used this guy before for simple jobs and figured installing a replacement radiator was within his range of skills - wrong!

New copper/brass radiator arrived - a long and expensive story. It did not come with the oil cooler spigots. Mechanic confused. Graeme Cooper's sent me the set that fitted the radiator but not the cooler lines. Mechanic more confused. Fortunately I had the ones from the original radiator so these were cut and silver soldered onto the new ones - problem solved and radiator installed

Purchased expensive but excellent cleaner from Liquid Intelligence despite "mechanic" claiming it was unnecessary. I rigged up a bypass tank so the emulsified oil in the coolant passages would not clog the new radiator. With mechanic's "help" got out most of the gunk. This left the mechanic to flush it again and test it. Paid for labor to date (not including radiator or spigot fabrication $300

All above was the good news! Now for the sequel - First a statement that he would "pull out the engine tomorrow" - I declined. Here is the email exchange (comments in blue are mine):

We returned to your car today,

We started it and surprisingly it ran on 8 cylinder. It took 2 litres of water in the header tank. Oil is leaking around base of distributor.

Would you agree it is most likely an air lock from when it was filled ?

There is still a lot of oil in the header tank and I believe it is from the previous episode. not current problems.

Yes- seems certain it is OLD oil still in coolant so it needs to be flushed again - this time, your dish washing option will be best

We checked the oil pressure it was 26psi at idle engine warm not hot. Don't know what the spec is but I would expect better than that. Could be a blocked strainer, broken pump relief valve spring, worn engine bearings or worn pump.

Hot idle oil pressure can be as low as 20psi and not risk the engine. Have you or will you please clean the pressure relief valve? Was the oil pressure switch replaced with the new one sent from Cooper's last week? Some of the AURO guys have reported oil pressure problems caused by clogged anti drainback valves on the oil filters. Obviously these are cheap things to check before ripping the engine apart

I assume you wanted to check your air flow metre that was attached to the car. It seemed to work ok.

Yes, it is the one in the car that needed checking and although there are electrical measurement to do this, the simplest way is to remove it, unscrew the sensor section and visually check that the fine wires are intact. Only if that inspection fails should it be be necessary to replace it. Stuart tells me a faulty MAF will affect idling but will not cause the engine to misfire significantly

The spark plugs were removed but not replaced as they were NGK iridium spark plugs. Some showed signs of oil fouling The passenger side seemed worse than the drivers side.

The compression pressures starting on the drivers side and starting at the front and moving backward are 140 130 130 120 all in psi The compression pressure then starting on the passenger side at the front and moving backwards are 140 110 140 120 all in psi Any of the figures under 140 had a wet test done and they improved approximately 10 psi indicating a burnt valve.

The passenger's side are cylinders 1,3,5 & 7 and from what you say below, that is where the lowest compression occurred, though the reading are not far enough out to cause me a great deal of concern. As you say, it could be a valve - burned or maybe just sticking

Please advise where you want to go from here.

Good question. Maybe I'm stupid but I still cannot image why an engine running so well before the radiator incident should now be in so much trouble For that reason, I'm not inclined to have the rings or head gaskets done just yet. I suggest (per above):
Clean out the cooling passages again until the gunk has been largely eliminated
Clean the oil pressure relief valve
Fit the replacement oil pressure switch if not already done
Visually check the MAF hot-wires if not already done
Put a can of valve cleaner into the oil and run the engine for a while
Recheck that the ignition timing is set on 13 BFTDC

Now for the really fun part:

Verbal advice from mechanic " You have to trust me" " I have been doing this for 40 years" " it is almost certainly the missing thermostat causing the problem" "I'll drop the sump" Mt answer "No you will not"

Later - "Took car for a run, Oil light came on again. It was almost out of engine oil -Had it towed back"

My actions:

Told mechanic to leave the vehicle alone.
I installed new battery
I changed the spark plugs.
I replaced the thermostat
Car refused to start - only a clunk from the starter
Had it towed to reliable service centre

Result: Service shop tested the starter motor, then drained - wait for it - 15 litres oil NEW oil from the vehicle. Tested - no oil warning light. Charge for labor $300

Complained to mechanic, demanding partial refund of $800 labor charges. Very unhappy response including (if you can believe this):

"The only point I will contend (I think he means "concede") is 15 litres of oil in the sump. How it would get there I do not know. I had the oil the engine arrived with and two litres of your oil in the back of the car. I did not purchase or use any other oil at your request. It is unfortunate that you managed to park and work on your car outside a neighbors house whom has protested to the council about the operation of my business in a residential area on many occasions. You could possibly ask them how the oil got there. It was parked there for some considerable time with the key in the tail pipe also at your request and at time of your doing". "Oh and I never want any further contact with you"

My conclusion: Obviously they blackened their faces, recovered the key from the exhaust where it was hidden, unlocked the car, released the catch and raised the bonnet - all in complete silence. Then they poured about 12 litres of completely fresh new oil into the engine before closing the bonnet, re-locking the car etc. Very skilled neighbors indeed!