Thread: Wheel wont come off

It’s stuck on the spigot - use a jack stand to support the vehicle then alternately pull hard on the top, then bottom of the tyre - once it’s moving just the slightest amount, you’ll be able to keep rocking it until it comes off. Clean the spigot up with some scotchbrite or similar before refitting the wheel.

I've had to get on the ground to kick the inside of a front wheel of a D2, then rotate the wheel 180 deg and kick again a few times to get the wheel off. A good clean-up and greasing of the rim and hub before refitting ensured that it didn't get stuck again.

Alloy or steel?

As per Homestar's advice -Leverage rocks. On the Tibia- OUCH- To the POOL. Physio and moving is key to avoid the pain+ My cool surgeon allowed me to ride my push bike when still on crutches.

Originally Posted by V8Ian

Alloy or steel?

I was assuming alloy - on his L322 - only because I had the exact same issue with mine when I had it, but not 100% sure.

Yep its alloy.

Thanks for all the responses..

I,ll be getting a trolley jack later this week, so I,ll lift it with that and put axle stands under it, so I can get stuck into it.


Navydiver.. lucky you..Yeah I,m moving as much as possible. Been slowly walking on it since I got home and am
now able to get around without the crutches for couple of hours,but then the pain starts to get too much and its back on the crutches.
My break was down near where the leg meets the ankle,so around that area can become particularly painful at times.

But its all good, still seeing the physio every few weeks to check up on my progress(which he says is good ).

DG

Yesterday I had the fronts off my D2, which I assume are similar. The left came eventually, but the right would not budge, no matter what ( I have an injured shoulder, which limited how much wiggling I could do ). In desperation I put a few of the nuts back on maybe 5 threads, lowered the car and very slowly drove back and forth, wiggling the steering. It popped. But I don't think this is a good idea as a general rule.
I cleaned the hub and the inside of the wheel centre with a brush on a drill, and smeared anti seize on both surfaces.

Originally Posted by Tins

Yesterday I had the fronts off my D2, which I assume are similar. The left came eventually, but the right would not budge, no matter what ( I have an injured shoulder, which limited how much wiggling I could do ). In desperation I put a few of the nuts back on maybe 5 threads, lowered the car and very slowly drove back and forth, wiggling the steering. It popped. But I don't think this is a good idea as a general rule.
I cleaned the hub and the inside of the wheel centre with a brush on a drill, and smeared anti seize on both surfaces.

Sounds like a good plan - probably not the sort of think you’d put out there as ‘the’ way to do it - only because someone along the line would think ‘If it works with a few wheel nuts, maybe one will be ok’

I certainly will remember that though if I get stuck.