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Thread: Any boat types help identify this?

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saitch View Post
    Mercury did have a bad reputation, commonly known as a "Black Anchor", but whether this was warranted is open to conjecture. Depending on the age and model (it looks electric start) there could be several issues. It could be something as simple as a fuel filter or dodgy stator. Conversely, a kaput crankcase is a throw away scenario.
    Strewth, with an outboard, the mind boggles.

    What HP is it? 50-60?
    At the moment it sounds like ****all.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Homestar View Post
    So if you give her the price of the fuel to drive up there it could make her want to go out and buy a new one…
    I don't think you've got the idea at all, Gav... Unless she needs help with the fitment..
    ​JayTee

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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saitch View Post
    Mercury did have a bad reputation, commonly known as a "Black Anchor", but whether this was warranted is open to conjecture. Depending on the age and model (it looks electric start) there could be several issues. It could be something as simple as a fuel filter or dodgy stator. Conversely, a kaput crankcase is a throw away scenario.
    Strewth, with an outboard, the mind boggles.

    What HP is it? 50-60?
    The name a lot of people called them here in Qld was Black word starting with B. We had a couple on different boats, the legs would split from corrosion even though we flushed them after every use & had then serviced regally.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozscott View Post
    Looks like a 3 cylinder 60hp auto oiling. One of the better Mercs. Basic. Magneto regulated charging system, fuel pump is crank diaphragm driven, basic electronic ignition. 3 single throat carbs.

    Cheers
    Any particular failings I should be aware of?
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  5. #15
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    Not that I am aware of Tins. Certainly when I owned 2 of them I had no issues. I prefer the build quality of the Japanese motors but the 60 Merc was a good bit of kit. Should do high hours no issue. One I purchased had done 1500 to 2000 hours on a net boat and was running like new. Cheers

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozscott View Post
    Not that I am aware of Tins. Certainly when I owned 2 of them I had no issues. I prefer the build quality of the Japanese motors but the 60 Merc was a good bit of kit. Should do high hours no issue. One I purchased had done 1500 to 2000 hours on a net boat and was running like new. Cheers
    Thanks. In this case the boat and motor was free so there's no loss I guess. I'll have to saddle up and go look. Are parts available do you reckon?
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    Thanks. In this case the boat and motor was free so there's no loss I guess. I'll have to saddle up and go look. Are parts available do you reckon?
    Yes mate. They were very common. I would doubt you would have any issues getting parts new (from gearbox seals through to rectifiers) and second hand from wreckers. The later model I had had electrically operated choke (solenoid) with a manual pull lever for the choke also. The electric operation is a push of the ignition key while cranking. They need choke to start cold but once warm no choke and should start installing at a touch of the key. Biggest issue with these like most 2 stroke carby motors is stale fuel crystallising/gumming up in the carb jets and circuits causing stalling at idle and rough running. Some motors are less prone than others. My 40hp Tohatsu just never seems to have an issue with the carbs whereas my 115 Yamaha Saltwater series (I had 2 about 10 years apart) were prone to it. The 60hp Mercs seemed prone too. Cheers

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozscott View Post
    Yes mate. They were very common. I would doubt you would have any issues getting parts new (from gearbox seals through to rectifiers) and second hand from wreckers. The later model I had had electrically operated choke (solenoid) with a manual pull lever for the choke also. The electric operation is a push of the ignition key while cranking. They need choke to start cold but once warm no choke and should start installing at a touch of the key. Biggest issue with these like most 2 stroke carby motors is stale fuel crystallising/gumming up in the carb jets and circuits causing stalling at idle and rough running. Some motors are less prone than others. My 40hp Tohatsu just never seems to have an issue with the carbs whereas my 115 Yamaha Saltwater series (I had 2 about 10 years apart) were prone to it. The 60hp Mercs seemed prone too. Cheers
    Thanks heaps. Places to start. Tipping Brisvegas would have a few boat wrecker places.


    The things we do....
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  9. #19
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    Yes mate. Yatala is convenient. I meant once warm they should start instantly. Bloody predictive text. Cheers

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozscott View Post
    Yes mate. Yatala is convenient. I meant once warm they should start instantly. Bloody predictive text. Cheers
    Thanks for all this. If I do this I'll be based at Boonah. Not too far from Yatala in the scheme of things. Is it ok to test 'em in a 44?
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

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