I've always wondered about thinner & thinner oils being used to give better economy.
False economy if you need to replace the engine down the track !
Colin
 Modern OEM Engine OILS - In some cases are they doing more harm than good?
 Modern OEM Engine OILS - In some cases are they doing more harm than good?
		(Warning - Non-LR related.... possibly)
Guys, I came across this Video from Just Autos about some recent engine failures in the Toyota 300's. They found through their investigations that it simply came down to the oil grade and capacity and service intervals... I wonder how many other manufacturers this applies to...
Easy solution for owners but they might have to start supplying their own specific grade of oil to the Toyota Dealerships when servicing their cars
I've always wondered about thinner & thinner oils being used to give better economy.
False economy if you need to replace the engine down the track !
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
There's a certain German who maintains that the reliability of the SD/TD V6 engines are let down by this very thing.
Quite a can of worms you're opening here, Rob. One of the contentions would be that the thinner grades of oil specified, as well as maintenance intervals, is down to the manufacturers having to chase ever more difficult emission standards. Not sure how that argument would go down at the average stealer's service department though. Or the manufacturer's warranty department either.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
I watched that last night plus another earlier in the week that showed just how small the bearings are in the toymota 300 engine, i see another 3.0 type failure rate coming on.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
 Super Moderator
					
					
						Super ModeratorRemember the manufacturer doesn't care about you or I, all they care about is getting their efficiency rebate from the US Govt and being allowed to sell their tin boxes in California. As long as most of them last past the warranty period they're happy.I've always wondered about thinner & thinner oils being used to give better economy.
False economy if you need to replace the engine down the track !
MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.
Spot on, except it’s not just Cali. Although it probably is for yota.Originally Posted by BradC;[URL="tel:3236170"
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
A couple of weeks ago my sister bought an Isuzu ute with about 120 thou on it. Pretty much like new. She lives in the sticks.
A few days later she told me the oil light came on, but she kept driving to work.
It wasn't the oil light we all know well, but a 'degraded oil' warning (kinda like reduced oil pressure before the serious light comes on)............. so she puts it in for an immediate service.
The owner's handbook specifies all sorts of grades including 10-30, 10-40. I told her to go for 10-40. They put 15-40 in and the trip computer thing is still reading 8 litres per 100kms, i.e. no real difference in mileage.
DL
 Wizard
					
					
						Supporter
					
					
						Wizard
					
					
						SupporterYeah, I've seen those vids. German or Austrian dude with his wife. Fascinating stuff.
Still, it's nothing new now is it? We have seen it with the Rover V8 20+ years ago in their last iterations. Both the D2 and P38 had the engine run a bit too lean and thus hot at certain conditions just to meet emissions / fuel consumption and they put way thinner oil in there with a much larger maintenance interval whilst nothing had changed in the engine to warrant that.
There seem to be two schools of thought: put the lowest weight oil in the engine that gives you sufficient oil pressure or put in the highest weight oil in the engine is specified for. Guess it depends on the engine and I am sure some people will find out soon enough what will "fix" the 300's engine
-P
 Wizard
					
					
						Wizard
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Also never push a synthetic oil. Unlike a mineral oil which can go on a synthetic oil had a designed life and tolerance to conditions. Once these are exceeded it breaks down into a grey sludge which as you might have guessed is not good for the engine
 ForumSage
					
					
						ForumSage
					
					
                                        
					
					
						
Interesting... The Camry is recovering from a massive sludge-up &. removal. Symptoms were pointing to a valve-guide seal or two, on a specific cylinder... Tried the 'oil-Treacle' route, but ended up savagely "engine flushing" for a week... then replace with 'watery oil.' Fixed.
Apparently, SLUDGE makes sticky oil-control rings... which normally (now) don't scrape as hard as they used to... all in the name of "efficiency" from Lo-FRiction.
I have a more than nagging feeling that PO's ServiceMan had used synthetic oils, and drove like the Little Old Lady she indeed was....between home and The Shops.
Very common problem for Camry engines, - loads of sludge build-up.
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