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Thread: Series Wiring - Seriously.

  1. #1
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    Series Wiring - Seriously.

    Seriously, how can Series wiring be so unreliable.

    Working on mine, only the parker lights work and the engine runs - thats it.

    So, I get out the wiring diagram and it is not quite as simple as you can possibly make it, but its getting pretty close to that.

    So why is this wiring so unreliable.

    My guess: 3/4 of it is unfused, switches get full current with no relays, dodgy earths and bullet connectors seem to be great insulators.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slunnie View Post

    My guess: 3/4 of it is unfused, switches get full current with no relays, dodgy earths and bullet connectors seem to be great insulators.
    Nailed it.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  3. #3
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    And once the smoke leaks out of the wires....

  4. #4
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    Hello Slunnie,

    Well, you might be aware of the rumor attributed to Lord Lucas that "A gentleman does not motor about after dark". Then link this to the reliability of the electrical system. Also, consider for its time a Series was probably at the cutting edge of the available and relatively affordable technology. Relays only serve to complicate wiring diagrams anyway!

    By the way - the Lucas Sticker is available from ... Land rover & Classic Car Lucas Comedy Home before Dark Sticker Decal
    – Emberton Imperial


    Kind regards
    Lionel

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slunnie View Post
    Seriously, how can Series wiring be so unreliable.

    Working on mine, only the parker lights work and the engine runs - thats it.

    So, I get out the wiring diagram and it is not quite as simple as you can possibly make it, but its getting pretty close to that.

    So why is this wiring so unreliable.

    My guess: 3/4 of it is unfused, switches get full current with no relays, dodgy earths and bullet connectors seem to be great insulators.
    My Series I is still running it's original wiring harness. The wires are fabric wrapped rubber coated, in a few spots you can see the wire inside (I carry a fire extinguisher).
    Two Series II's and two Series III's also run their original harnesses.

    The problem I found initially with the Series I was with the connectors.
    I don't understand how but the bullet connectors rubber covering had migrated and was stopping the bullets making contact with the steel sleeve inside the connector ?!
    Replaced with PVC covered connectors, cleaned the brass bullets, sorted a couple of earth connections and all OK since.

    As you suggested, the problem is typically with earthing and the bullet connectors rather than the wiring itself.

    Another problem with light globes can be that the contacts in the holder deform the solder contacts on the globe over time. Out with the soldering iron..... an easy fix.

    The last problem is.....amateurs fiddling, twisting wires together rather than soldering or adding a connector, adding accessories that overload the wiring etc.

    I did read an article some years ago where it was suggested that the bullet connectors were designed initially to hold the harness in place rather than actually transmit electricity
    Personally I've not had a problem with them, once cleaned, on motorcycles or cars over the years.


    Lucas - Prince of Darkness - Lucas Electrical Humor Jokes

    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  6. #6
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    In my RAEME days in the early 70s I worked on numerous IIAs. Apart from things like the blackout switch ( which brought joy to many of us) by far the most likely cause of any electrical gremlins was the aforementioned bullet connectors and bad earths. The shielded ignition system on FFRs had its moments as well. ( never touched the electrics for the radio, not my field).
    I had a thing like a mini wire bottle brush for cleaning the female parts of the bullet connectors. No WD type spray of course. We used hand sprays of Penetrene. Petroleum jelly was used to prevent water ingress, but that is not recommended long term because it can ruin rubber, which I’m pretty sure was used back then. Rubber grease was better, but we had to use what we could get from the store.
    I didn’t encounter too many issues with people modifying stuff, as soldiers were not encouraged to do field repairs, to put it mildly. And of course in 1972ish the cars were not old. They did see a fair bit of water and mud, which got everywhere. This was often the cause of the problems.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

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