Thread: disco 3 vs RR vs RRS reliability

Thanks Scott. I didn't have the steering knock issue that some others have had (even though I do a lot of rough driving). I was just interested 'cause I'm getting close to end or warranty and want to make sure I cover everything.

Could this be an issue exacerbated by failing to set the geometry correctly. I know owners who've had weheel alignments done at the local tyre shop, but without putting the car into the setting mode it's a waste of time.

Still, I'll add ball joints to my things-to-be-checked list for the next service.

Originally Posted by Jamo

Thanks Scott. I didn't have the steering knock issue that some others have had (even though I do a lot of rough driving). I was just interested 'cause I'm getting close to end or warranty and want to make sure I cover everything.

Could this be an issue exacerbated by failing to set the geometry correctly. I know owners who've had weheel alignments done at the local tyre shop, but without putting the car into the setting mode it's a waste of time.

Still, I'll add ball joints to my things-to-be-checked list for the next service.

Steering 'knock' on the RRS can actually be caused by a faulty anti-roll bar.

M

Originally Posted by camel_landy

Steering 'knock' on the RRS can actually be caused by a faulty anti-roll bar.

M

Yes, the bushes can creak when new(ish) & also can knock with a few k's under their belt.

Originally Posted by Scouse

We've done ball joints on low km city cars (30000km) & high km country cars (80000km).
I don't know what's causing this abnormal wear & I don't know if LR are investigating it - I hope UK are. It might be a design issue, it might be a material issue. Hopefully it might be limited to a batch but I don't think so....

Reminds me of the original Ford Falcon of the Sixties. The suspension ball joints weren't up to Australian conditions and had to be redesigned.

Ron

Originally Posted by Scouse

Yes, the bushes can creak when new(ish) & also can knock with a few k's under their belt.

Or if you bugger it while off-road...

Originally Posted by drivesafe

Depends on your luck.

My first front diff went at 40,000 and so was under warranty. When it went, there was no indication and no noise as it actually gave way, but as soon as I put my foot on the accelerator there was the sound of a jet engine powering up. Even played it over the phone to the LR tech.

The second time, I was driving along and over a few days, I was getting a squealing sound that was getting louder as each day passed and gave my dealer a call and he wanted to have the RR as soon as possible, so I went there straight away.

He came for a test drive and could hear the noise. Back at the workshop, he had a look around the engine and said he thinks it might be an idler arm pulley going and got me to leave it with him and my wife picked me up.

By the time she drove me home, as we walked in the front door the phone was ringing and it was the tech and he informed me that it was another front diff. This time I had 160,000 clocked up.

NHTSA Begins Investigation of Range Rover Front Diff Failures - see http://rangerovers.net/rrnews.html#nhtsa

Originally Posted by NHTSA

Make: LAND ROVER Model: RANGE ROVER Year: 2002 NHTSA Action Number: PE07019 Summary: ODI HAS RECEIVED 38 VEHICLE OWNER QUESTIONNAIRES (VOQS) ALLEGING FAILURE OF THE FRONT DRIVE SHAFT AND/OR THE FRONT AXLE DIFFERENTIAL. MANY OF THE COMPLAINANTS ALLEGE THAT THE FAILURE RESULTS IN A LOSS OF VEHICLE PROPULSION AND SUBSEQUENT VEHICLE IMMOBILIZATION. SEVENTEEN OF THE COMPLAINTS ALLEGE THAT THE FAILURE OCCURRED WHILE DRIVING AT SPEEDS GREATER THAN 40 MPH. SIXTEEN OF THE COMPLAINANTS ALLEGE THE VEHICLE REQUIRED TOWING AS A RESULT OF THE FAILURES. ADDITIONALLY, EIGHT OF THE COMPLAINANTS ALLEGE THAT THEY EXPERIENCED TWO FAILURES OF THE FRONT DIFFERENTIAL AND/OR FRONT DRIVESHAFT. A PRELIMINARY EVALUATION HAS BEEN OPENED TO ASSESS THE SCOPE, FREQUENCY AND SAFETY CONSEQUENCES OF THE ALLEGED DEFECT.

Ron

Thanks Ron, the findings should be VERY interesting.

I have no complaints about the way LRA have handled the replacement of both my failed front diffs but it still doesn’t help the confidence side of things when considering a long trip somewhere.

Cheers.

Originally Posted by jase

ok
the time has come to buy the wife a car (it's been coming for a while)
Her B'day is coming up and I may as well get the brownie points & the new car (and save buying another presant)
Rather than stall her another month, make her grumpy and have to buy a presant as well as a car (well it makes sence to me)
So going to go all out and spend big bucks so this one has to last for a few years = 200,000kms without killing me on repair bills
I've been looking around for the last month and for about the same money ($60-70k) I can get a 4 year old RR or a 2 year old disco 3
(a RRS is more $ due to newer age and the higher new cost so probably wont happen although it's her fave)
I know what I prefer (the big Rangie ) and I know pros / cons of the different models re features, functions, size ect
but for purely relaibility, doing high kms anyone (esp those who work at stealers) have any feedback good or bad
note they would be second hand (current shape) and DIESEL varients

feedback appreciated
thanks
Jase

Jase,

I've just gone through all the math on this and bought a D3 V6SE last month. $64k (in white only) on the road. 3 year warranty with road assist and 3 years free servicing. 12l/100km hwy, 16.5l/100km city. You get the air suspension, leather, 7 seats (won't get that on a Rangie), climate, etc.

A great car and the price of the diesel is just too much to swallow.

My 2 cents worth.

Mark