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Thread: Oh Dear! What am I going to do?

  1. #51
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    Ron, I've got an old army steel helmet you can have for when the time comes to bunker down, Actualy...... a "bunker" looking shed in the back yard could be a new place to hide it.

  2. #52
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    Look at it this way Ron,

    it's already broken

    so every move from here can only be positive...

    GQ

  3. #53
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    Hay I resent that remark about a real LR but can I have it

  4. #54
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    Youse blokes are no help at all!

    I gave it a pressure wash this arvo after my wife went to work - the paint certainly came off well.

    It looks better than I expected.

    I wuz thinkin'

    As it is only a truck cab, a full restoration may not be that hard.......

    A couple of points I noticed. It has strengthened front and rear axle housings like the military ones I saw at Dinty's.

    I thought of fitting RR diffs and that may be easier than expected. The diff housings have filler plugs in them so I won't need to modify them (see http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php't=34311 )

    Ron
    Ron B.
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    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post

    A couple of points I noticed. It has strengthened front and rear axle housings like the military ones I saw at Dinty's.

    I thought of fitting RR diffs and that may be easier than expected. The diff housings have filler plugs in them so I won't need to modify them (see http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php't=34311 )

    Ron
    Most SIIAs had the strengthened housings.

    RR diffs are a pita IMO - you end up spending a lot of time in 3rd and you have useless gearing offroad. If you can get a cheap set of 4.1s they would probably be an aceptable compromise.

  6. #56
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    tick tick tick tick tick



    The boom will be loud
    Series 11A ex Air Force
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    RIP 2006 Discovery 3
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    RIP 1999 Freelander
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  7. #57
    p38arover's Avatar
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    At last you say!

    Now what year is it based on the serial nos. I gave earlier?

    Last edited by p38arover; 17th July 2007 at 08:52 PM.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  8. #58
    jsp's Avatar
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    I dunno Ron.....the P38 looks mighty comfy compared......

    Then again, even in its current condition its probably more reliable than the P38 Mind you I love the flat bed!

    Speaking of which and bad luck - know where to get a good cheap engine bay P38 fuse box?

    2007/2002/2000/1994/1993/1988/1987/1985/1984/1981/1979/1973 Range Rover 1986 Wadham Stringer
    and a Nissan Cube............
    South Australia.

  9. #59
    p38arover's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsp View Post
    Speaking of which and bad luck - know where to get a good cheap engine bay P38 fuse box?
    Mine had been repaired twice so it needed replacement. I bought a new one. Don't ask the price.....

    Ron
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  10. #60
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    Great stuff Ron.
    As far as I know all the Limestone coloured Series2 Landies in Aust were originally powered by the Landy6.Another way of checking is the front drum brakes will be the 3" wide rather than 2 1/4" wide.Easy to check,the 3" drums have square shoulders compared to the normal round shoulders.Look in the gaps in the rims front and rear,if they look bigger on the front you have a good score,1/2 decent brakes as far as Series Landies go if you can get them working!!!!
    ENJOY
    Andrew
    DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
    Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
    Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
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    I made the 1 millionth AULRO post

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