You might want to PM Reads90. He's definitley got an opinion.....
Has any body used there products or has any idea what there extreame kit is worth
at the expo I remember the equip guy having a few bad words about them but in business its common
You might want to PM Reads90. He's definitley got an opinion.....
The extreme kit is worth over $7000 dont know much about em although they have a 90 chassis at Rovacraft set up with the extreme kit and it looks awesome
this i why i would have liked to have my 90 up on the ramp at the expo!
it would have hi lighted what can be achieved by the DIYer at home for minimal cost.
cheers phil
I can tell you what is worth about 50c in my mind
Scrap Iron ripped off Equipe so they are the last people to ask about them
Were the main UK agent for Equipe in the Uk , untill scrap iron nicked there ideas and then made them localy but were of much lesser quality (if fact sh*t) .
Hence whay they have the name scrap iron in the UK
95 300 Tdi Defender 90
99 300 Tdi Defender 110
92 Discovery 200tdi
50 Series 1 80
50 Series 1 80
www.reads4x4.com
7G hoowly dooley your kidding
Ive asked alot of questions about suspension and not really the wiser
now has come the time to put the money where the mouth is seeing that I have finally taken a deposit for the WRX
Seeing some pics of scorpion boy they get flex out them and its exactly what I want with out the price tag
I was mind set to go with LRA spings Billies for shocks in a3.5 inch lift there are that many combinations and different spring and shocks from the Rancho where most would say there crap exept Ken to bilsteins
the local spring guy suggest Koni (ALL SPRINGS) he is a spring manufacturer no real idea about for wheel drives he advised that I dont want to go over 25mm as Disco is laxuary car (haaaaaaa) he did advise he can make them at any hight at rate just give him the details (but what details I dont know whats good for me) how ever he is cheap at 160 a pair
So Phil be my montor master Jedi how would you go about it?
starting with spring shocks custor adjustments radias arms what ever
I have never been happy with the springs that were on my 300Tdi disco I.
The front was too low (about standard height I guess). The rear is raised, but I still don't like the springs.
I recently replaced the front springs with Kings 80/105 series landcruiser front springs KTFS 94C. These are standard height, comfort springs.
The disco has an alloy TJM bar, winch cradle, lowmount winch and 2 heavy agm batteries on the front. My guess is the front is now lifted between 3" and 4".
I tried one in the rear to check the height and they will be good there, so will get another pair this week to go in the rear of the disco.
I removed the front bolt from the left hand radius arm and unbolted the brake hose bracket from the inner guard, so that I could get the axle to droop enough to fit the longer spring (I was only doing one side at a time).
Since I have often thought about how it would drive with this bolt removed, I had to take it for a test drive after the springs were in. Around town and on the highway it handled ok. A little more body sway, and a little more dive on the left side under brakes. Altogether quite satisfactory.
Flex at the front was greatly increased and is now better balanced with the rear.
Offroad it has improved out of site and is much more comfortable to drive over ruts.
I find those 80/105 springs are excellent if you want that amount of lift. The only issue is that the coil at one end is not flattened and ground.
Flex is still limited by stock length shockies, but I have some LRA extended billies that will soon be fitted (once I have some spacers to raise the shock turrents and brackets to lower the brake hoses.
As for the front bolt in the left radius arm. My plan is to make a pin that can be fitted/removed conveniently (along the lines of a pin for hayman reece tow hitches).
I had a pair of Scrap iron racing rear shock drop mounts..... i broke one..... and i dont drive that hard..... never broken a CV or axle so i must be gentle...
Would i buy from them again.... Nope
Radius arms attach to the axle housing with 2 bolts to prevent the housing from rotating.
When the axle articulates, the radius arm on one side will be up and the other will be down. The difference in the angle (from one side to the other), tries to twist the axle housing, making it work like a large sway bay and restricting articulation.
By removing the front bolt on one side, the axle is freed up for articulation.
The downside is that during heavy braking, only the radius arm that has both bolts can resist the rotation of the axle. This will increase the load on the bolts and the rubber bushes on that side radius arm.
I did a trip today that involved about 2 hrs total on main roads and there were no significant issues, but I wouldn't want to run like this for an extended period.
Off road is great, so a quick detachment pin will be good for mixed on/off road. For extended on road, the bolt will go back in.
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