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Thread: series 3 diesel

  1. #1
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    series 3 diesel

    g'day all. looking at buying a 1977 series 3 swb diesel. its in real good nik (except tyres are flat at the bottom) its been sitting for a long time and i wouldnt mind firing her up before i pay up. i havent had much to do with diesels so im really after a bit of advice on best way of getting her going without destroying the motor. with a petrol motor i'd get her turning over, get the oil pressure up, then squirt a bit of "start ya bastard" down the carb and cross fingers... wodayarecon...

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    Diesels are much the same, except they need only fuel and air to run. However - they won't run if there is any air in the fuel lines.

    Have at least 2 spare charged batteries.

    Drain the tank and put some new diesel in there. Drain the water and biological growth from the sedimenter (probably on the chassis, but may be on the firewall).

    There are 2 bleed screws on the injector pump (1/4" or 5/16" spanner from memory) - use the hand primer on the fuel pump to pump some fuel through these and check there is no air.

    Put your foot flat to the floor on the accelerator, and crank it over until the oil light goes out.

    Hit the glow plugs for 30 sec.

    Crank over as before (switch to new battery if necessary) until it starts. Black/grey smoke coming from the exhaust usually means it is close to starting.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by wozapinin View Post
    g'day all. looking at buying a 1977 series 3 swb diesel. its in real good nik (except tyres are flat at the bottom) its been sitting for a long time and i wouldnt mind firing her up before i pay up. i havent had much to do with diesels so im really after a bit of advice on best way of getting her going without destroying the motor. with a petrol motor i'd get her turning over, get the oil pressure up, then squirt a bit of "start ya bastard" down the carb and cross fingers... wodayarecon...
    "Start Ya Bastard" and "Aerostart" were designed to start diesel engines on cold days but were found to also start petrol engines.

    Just be very careful if you put too much in it can flash back.

    Diana

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  4. #4
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    cheers ben will follow instructions. i'm hoping she goes cause stock standard examples like this one, in such good nik are hard to come buy. might be a bit cheaper to get to work in than my 2a ford 250 six petrol.thanx

  5. #5
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Depending on the conditions it has been stored in, and the condition it was in when parked........

    Check that the engine can be turned by hand (should have a crankhandle, and you should be able to turn it past compression by leaning on the crankhandle for a few minutes). This will confirm the engine is not seized, and you should also find out whether it has four compressions. (if not, pull the rocker cover and check for one or more stuck valves - you may be looking at pulling the head off).

    Check you have fuel, and bleed the system, checking what the fuel at the pump looks like.

    Check that you have coolant, and that the water pump is not seized and does not leak as soon as the engine turns.

    Check the oil in the sump. It is probably black, but that is expected. Better if changed, and it must be changed if it shows any sign of water.

    If everything above is OK, fit a good battery and it should start. Unless it is very cold it should start without using the glow plugs unless compression is low - turning over a few times at cranking speed is a good idea as the unburnt fuel injected will act as a cylinder wall lubricant prior to startup.

    Avoid using Ezistart, as it can cause engine damage - and if necessary, the engine is sick. Do not run the engine, even for a short period, without the aircleaner.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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