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Thread: fridge karked it

  1. #11
    Rangier Rover Guest
    Has it a timer on it that controls defrost cycle?

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rangier Rover View Post
    Has it a timer on it that controls defrost cycle?
    yer it will have...it will be at bottom rear of the cabinet,on the left if it is the type i think it is

  3. #13
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    edddo, our fridge is a frost free job too.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  4. #14
    slug_burner is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by edddo View Post
    ....never...its a frost free one......

    Plan
    turn off o'nite and if that doesnt fix it, check the fan and sender
    for an easy fix.....o'wise trip to tip coming up.

    I dont mind living out of the engel for a while..
    cheers
    They all need defrosting......frost frees not as often

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by ladas View Post
    Typically this is nomally caused by the fan either failing or the evaporator coil freezing up - and the evaporator coil freezing up is normally caused by the fan failing.

    It's quite an easy test, but you have to remove the inside panel at the back of the freezer to get to the fan - to test it just connect it to another mains supply.

    When you remove the rear panel - if its the model I am thinking about you will also expose the evaporator coil - and you will see if it's frozen.
    Well I have defrosted and turned it back on...it seems that the fan is not working. I have removed the bac panel from the freezer with fan intact. There is an in line glass fuse on the balck wire to the fan that looks empty ie it must have blown. I suppose this indicates that the fan might be stuffed. In the post quoted here...how exactly do I test the fan by " connecting to another mains supply"...I have the fan and 2 wires-one black and one pink? Thanks for any advice.

  6. #16
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    Get a multmeter,and see what resistence is through the windings,if there is a circuit it should be ok.

    Cant tell you how to wire it up as i am guesing you are not qualified,and if you hurt yourself,i could be in the poo.

  7. #17
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    The resistance between the terminals on the fan motor is 168ohms...I take it this probably means the motor is dead?...the fuse is clearly blown confirmed visually and with multimeter... And yes..I am totally unqualified and unsavvy with electronics..

  8. #18
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    dont thats 240v stuff and unless your confident with electrickery it can bite you....

    so long as you take the right precautions....

    look at the fridge end of the power lead and it should terminate into a set of screw terminals.

    connect the fan to them they will have blue/brown or red/black wire combos

    the yellow green wire is earth dont connect anything to that or you will trip the RCD.

    once youve got it wired up plug the fridge back in and turn it on at the mains the fan should run up or your CB/RCD will trip.

    I strongly suggest that you just replace the fuse and be done with it, if it blows you need a new fan.

    Occasionally fuses will let go from age especially if they are fast/ultra fast blow type fuses. Standard automotive fuses and the cheap ones you get from jaycar and dicksmiths are considered slow blow and dont usually blow out with age.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  9. #19
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    you mean I should have turned it off at the wall before I started tampering with the wet wires and terminals???????

    Only joking....I am not silly enough to venture into that realm with no knowlege

    The fuse is integral to the black wire, not replacable. I think I will take the fan and wiring to a leccy and get them to assess it and quote a fix for me.

    Or maybe I could get a motor and wiring from a fridge wreckers---I doubt it though

    thanks

  10. #20
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    Checked a couple of evap. fan motors i have,one is 259ohms,other is 354,so hard to tell if it is ok.Some of the later ones also have a small run capaciter,dont know what resistence of that type could be.

    Dave is SPOT ON ,on what he said.I couldnt say it as i have a ticket to loose,but be damm careful.

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