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Thread: Which Landy for a Tuff truck?!

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Central West NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by rangieman View Post
    Why would you have a stubbie holder for warm beer
    It's to stop the beer getting cold. Thats why they keep it on the bonnet.

    Quote Originally Posted by McDisco View Post
    Um...yeah...that is what I want. What do you want for it?!

    Just to clarify, I dont want to do up a Landy for the Tuff Truck Challenge, I just want to do up a tough truck for the weekend.

    So, a few different opinions. Slunnie - so do you mean consider a Rangie but swapping out Patrol or Landcruiser 60 axles?

    Angus
    There are a heap of options in strengthening the driveline, and a common one is Patrol front and LC80 rear which also gives you 4.1 gearing. The LC60 axles might be too narrow to do with spring perches with the steering geometry and rim offset... I would also look at LC80 front centre and 4.1 Hilux rear centre with axles to suit and HD CV's (Rovertracks or similar). The CV's can be a problem while locked, even the HD ones from the Countys still break. Rovertracks wont be a problem for Rover axles, Longfield for Toyota axles, and I've been hearing a little about CAL CV's for Patrols lately, though this has traditionally been the Patrol axles achillies heel. Personally I'd gut the RRC axles, use Toy centres and Rovertracks axles/CV's. The US dollar doesn't look real flash though. I'm not a fan of the Salisbury, though that may be an option for the rear with a Toy centred front also, but I think in the Vic ruts the Salisbury will do your head in.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  2. #12
    McDisco Guest
    Thanks Simon. I might have to do a bit more research...

    Angus

  3. #13
    Join Date
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    'The Creek' Captain Creek, QLD
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    Slunnie was pretty spot on. Though sometimes another 4 inches in the wheelbase would help.

    My pick would be a rangie/series cab hybrid.

    Things to address are:
    • drive train
    • tyres and suspension
    • approach and departure angles (rangie weakness)
    • get as much weight out as possible, especially in the ends - batteries and everything else that can be moved (and definitely required) should go in the middle half
    The series body has room in the wheel arches for 35's, addresses the approach/departure angle, is lighter and narrower (another advantage) than rangie body.

    I would also get rid of the gutless, ancient, buick reject (rover) v8 and go for an LS1 (or the like) and auto.

  4. #14
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reads90 View Post
    Well this is what you want this is a 110 , This is what i was driving around at the being of May.
    me driving




    Notice the Aulro stubbie holder on the Wing top
    That's looks AWESOME. You wouldn't have a writeup of it would you?

  5. #15
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    It was built by Devon 4x4 and there are loads of photos and so on on their website. www.devon4x4.com

    Cheers
    Pete.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by McDisco View Post
    Um...yeah...that is what I want. What do you want for it?!
    Angus

    That what the stubby holder was for.


    Good swap a stubby holder for a 110.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    WA
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    I would either buy a county V8 OR an efi V8 rangie/disco. But I would go for the county over the others - because:

    I think 100" is a bit short - 105ish is optimal IMHO. It is easier to shorten a chassis than fit a series/def body to a rangie/disco (and/or lengthen a 100" chassis).

    The 110 has a stronger chassis.

    The county has the strongest drivetrain standard. You may be happy just with strengthening it slightly.

    Fewer body mods (and no lift) needed to fit larger wheels.


    If it was me, I would do the following:
    County V8 - shortened to 105ish"
    Rear overhang cut off (custom cross member)
    Trayback ute conversion
    Axles either:
    (R) Sals with 30spl shafts and 4.11D60 gears (F) toy 8" 4.11 centre, 30spl axles and longfields
    or
    (R) GU front / 80 Series Rear.

    First option might be a bit more expensive, but should give you a stronger setup if you use quality axles.

    Suspension - plenty of options, but I would keep everything at standard or +2" height, and just chop for clearance.

    37" tyres or similar.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Melbourne
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    Angus,
    If you're interested, I know someone that is thinking of selling a bob tailed rangie ute with 35" pedes, internal bead locks, front and rear maxi drives, ZF 4 speed auto, 4.2 EFI V8, roll cage blah blah blah. Very capable machine, and I think apart from the 35's, is fully engineered.

  9. #19
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Psimpson7 View Post
    It was built by Devon 4x4 and there are loads of photos and so on on their website. www.devon4x4.com

    Cheers
    Pete.
    Yeah your right it is hewre for direct link

    Devon 4x4 Off Road - 110 Trayback
    95 300 Tdi Defender 90
    99 300 Tdi Defender 110
    92 Discovery 200tdi
    50 Series 1 80
    50 Series 1 80


    www.reads4x4.com

  10. #20
    McDisco Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by cmurray View Post
    Angus,
    If you're interested, I know someone that is thinking of selling a bob tailed rangie ute with 35" pedes, internal bead locks, front and rear maxi drives, ZF 4 speed auto, 4.2 EFI V8, roll cage blah blah blah. Very capable machine, and I think apart from the 35's, is fully engineered.
    Thanks mate...I actually think I have seen it advertised. Olive drab coloured one right?!

    Yeah I would like that...just dont have the funds at the moment. Still a year away...just planning. And I am thinking that it might be better to buy someone else toy and save on the build up costs.

    Angus

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