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Thread: Which Landy for a Tuff truck?!

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Quote Originally Posted by McDisco View Post
    Thanks mate...I actually think I have seen it advertised. Olive drab coloured one right?!

    Yeah I would like that...just dont have the funds at the moment. Still a year away...just planning. And I am thinking that it might be better to buy someone else toy and save on the build up costs.

    Angus
    Dont want to buy an almost finished rangie ute do ya
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    narellan, sydney
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    be different, get a p38. Here is a plan (let me deram for a sec)

    Remove all the computers (yes it can be done) Replace the engine managemet one with a Hotwire or haltech and convert the gearbox to Disco 1 internals to do away with that computer. The brakes still work without the ABS computer (the abs doesnt though) so that can be gone too. The transfer computer can be converted to a switch (high and low), You wont need ac or heating, so the hevac unit can go too. Change the air suspension to coils (another computer gone) and replace the seats with competion style RCI racing buckets (no seat memory computer). Get a GPS as a speedo, and run aftermarket gauges. This means you can get rid of the BCM. (oh and never lock your doors).

    Fit At least 35 inch tyres (37 or 38 would be better) cut the hell out of the front arches, and move the rear diff back a bit and chop the 1/4s too. No suspension lift, as the tyres will lift it enough. Rollcage, a few sill bars front stinger or tube bar (cut the chassis rails off so it can mount flush with the grill) (SRS airbags have been disconnected, so anything that looks good and protects will do).

    Next, put it on a diet. Remove ALL sound proofing, carpet excess unused dash components, rear wheel well, door trims (replace with thin ally sheet), basically scrap anything that weighs more than 100g and isnt needed to offroad. If you get the weight back down to 2.2t that would be great. If it was me i would cut the doors down and remove all door glass and sunroof (interior is planned to be hosed out)

    As for diff strength, a rear 4 pinion in the front would be a good start and will go most places, But Ideal a set of post 01 F250 diffs with lockers will fit (center on the left front), but you dont want to know how much $ they are. Mabe some older F150/250 4x4 diffs (Dana 44 front and 44 or a D60 rear), or even mogs will go in nicely (front may be a squeeze as the pinion is long and mor towards the center than a p38).

    Engineering.............. well you will just have to know someone who can do pinkslips on the sly.......cause it can never be engineered with the SRS and ABS removed.

    Cost$$$$, i recon with standard diffs one could be built for sub 10K easily. (remember you can sell off excess parts - wheels, airbags, computers etc)

    will i ever build one, yes, but not until i finish my 110 mog diffed buggy (i cut it in half on saturday) and 110 bush ranger.

    Andy

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by McDisco View Post
    Thanks mate...I actually think I have seen it advertised. Olive drab coloured one right?!
    Yes that is the one. I've been away with a few times, and it is a pretty amazing machine. In a way I hope it doesn't sell, as I have dibs on the engine.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Yinnar South, Vic
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    Classic Rangie is the best, simply due to price, you pick clean mid eighties to nineties classics up for a grand a throw, very cheap to rebody

    If I was to build and off road, no long travel thing again, it's be an LR cab, 100" tray, extra cab to fit, Uncomortable cab compared to a rangie, but they're SOOO much narrower allowing for exo cage and way less panel damage

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Warrandyte, vic
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    stop selling the disco's short - and let him to buy mine...

  6. #26
    McDisco Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by loanrangie View Post
    Dont want to buy an almost finished rangie ute do ya
    Hmm... I dont know...Do I?! Or is it going to be a nightmare to finish?

  7. #27
    McDisco Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by cmurray View Post
    Yes that is the one. I've been away with a few times, and it is a pretty amazing machine. In a way I hope it doesn't sell, as I have dibs on the engine.
    Yeah I really wish I could afford it at the moment...looks nice. Dont like the colour though. Its got lots of goodies though..

    Angus

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Quote Originally Posted by trobbo View Post
    stop selling the disco's short - and let him to buy mine...
    That roof

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    St Helena,Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by McDisco View Post
    Hmm... I dont know...Do I?! Or is it going to be a nightmare to finish?
    Nah hard work is done but i just dont have the time what with 2 little girls, house reno's and an FC holden i want to finish.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    14,136
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrew e View Post
    be different, get a p38. Here is a plan (let me deram for a sec)

    Remove all the computers (yes it can be done) Replace the engine managemet one with a Hotwire or haltech and convert the gearbox to Disco 1 internals to do away with that computer. The brakes still work without the ABS computer (the abs doesnt though) so that can be gone too. The transfer computer can be converted to a switch (high and low), You wont need ac or heating, so the hevac unit can go too. Change the air suspension to coils (another computer gone) and replace the seats with competion style RCI racing buckets (no seat memory computer). Get a GPS as a speedo, and run aftermarket gauges. This means you can get rid of the BCM. (oh and never lock your doors).

    Fit At least 35 inch tyres (37 or 38 would be better) cut the hell out of the front arches, and move the rear diff back a bit and chop the 1/4s too. No suspension lift, as the tyres will lift it enough. Rollcage, a few sill bars front stinger or tube bar (cut the chassis rails off so it can mount flush with the grill) (SRS airbags have been disconnected, so anything that looks good and protects will do).

    Next, put it on a diet. Remove ALL sound proofing, carpet excess unused dash components, rear wheel well, door trims (replace with thin ally sheet), basically scrap anything that weighs more than 100g and isnt needed to offroad. If you get the weight back down to 2.2t that would be great. If it was me i would cut the doors down and remove all door glass and sunroof (interior is planned to be hosed out)

    As for diff strength, a rear 4 pinion in the front would be a good start and will go most places, But Ideal a set of post 01 F250 diffs with lockers will fit (center on the left front), but you dont want to know how much $ they are. Mabe some older F150/250 4x4 diffs (Dana 44 front and 44 or a D60 rear), or even mogs will go in nicely (front may be a squeeze as the pinion is long and mor towards the center than a p38).

    Engineering.............. well you will just have to know someone who can do pinkslips on the sly.......cause it can never be engineered with the SRS and ABS removed.

    Cost$$$$, i recon with standard diffs one could be built for sub 10K easily. (remember you can sell off excess parts - wheels, airbags, computers etc)

    will i ever build one, yes, but not until i finish my 110 mog diffed buggy (i cut it in half on saturday) and 110 bush ranger.

    Andy
    Do you think the radius arms front and rear would be strong enough and flex well? P38 CV's I think would be an issue, but as you say.... axle transplant. Heaps of Jeep axles would be suitable having RH drop. Dana 44 front and rear would be unreal for the Victorians.

    What would you do with the Viscous transfer though? Is it strong enough or positive enough. I looked at the drawing of one for a while to see if it could be adapted to lock but couldn't see a solution as it'd be a great setup for those that want to run Mogs etc. Oh well..... to dream.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

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