WHAT WERE THEY THINKING...

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Originally Posted by Psimpson7

:D lol.

I love the amount of people who bitch that they couldnt possibly take a TD5 (or any electronically controlled engine) into the middle of no where, most of whom have probably have never been beyond their home town or capital city.

So much nonsense is spouted by people who pretend to know a huge amount and in reality have little or no experience of any of the modern stuff.

There are obviosuly exceptions, Brian for instance who has had issues, but nowdays with easyily available diagnostic tools I would happily take a td5,6, v6, or v8 anywhere.

I would say that 95 times out of 100 that you may have problems they would be mechanical anyway.

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There was a poll recently that found exactly that. Despite computer control it is still just about always something unrelated that stops them - which is typically someone that has drowned the ECU. Then it drys out and off they go again. It's just luddites really and people that cant keep abreast of how things work that knock them. I think somebody has already said that you can strip most of the stuff of a TD5 and it will keep going. It seems to be a motor that can niggle at times like every other Rover motor, but when it niggles its very unusual for it to be something terminal which everybody seems to think it is, while at the same time forget minor issues like broken timing belts, cracked heads, slipped liners etc and they forget about them because they know how to deal with them and are not worried about them - much the same as the TD5. I think the only motors that don't niggle are the Series motors which dont have the horsepower to niggle and the Isuzu which is a great motor, but rattles everything without mercy.

I don't like coming home from a trip......

Because it means I have to go back to work.


What was I thinking....:dbcry:


Sketer

What the hell were they thinking with the rubber joint on the rear drive shaft of the D1. 3 this year. So bad i carry a spare one with me if i go out with Scouse. I always do one if i go out with him...... Good Fun. Have a solid shaft sorted after this one. Really, bad design.
Not to mention those stupid P*&^ant plastic bumper end caps on the D1s.


Cheers and a Happy New Year to all:):):)

Rob

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Originally Posted by Slunnie

There was a poll recently that found exactly that. Despite computer control it is still just about always something unrelated that stops them - which is typically someone that has drowned the ECU. ...<snip>

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Try telling that to our friend Neil, since the purchase of his D2 he has had to have the chassis replaced under warranty, the ECU and wiring harness replaced because of oil ingress to the ECU, on his most recent trip to Arnhemland, he had to have his front drive shaft replaced in Darwin because of a failed double cardan joint (noticing that you have retrofitted after-market DC joints which can be lubricated) and only days after replacing the prop-shaft the TD5 oil pump failed and the donk put a leg out of bed. So the DII was put on a transport and shipped from Katherine to Sydney because of the lack of a dealer network.

What is unrelated to poor design in that?

WWTT

Diana

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Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

Try telling that to our friend Neil, since the purchase of his D2 he has had to have the chassis replaced under warranty, the ECU and wiring harness replaced because of oil ingress to the ECU, on his most recent trip to Arnhemland, he had to have his front drive shaft replaced in Darwin because of a failed double cardan joint (noticing that you have retrofitted after-market DC joints which can be lubricated) and only days after replacing the prop-shaft the TD5 oil pump failed and the donk put a leg out of bed. So the DII was put on a transport and shipped from Katherine to Sydney because of the lack of a dealer network.

What is unrelated to poor design in that?

WWTT

Diana

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Chassis is exceptional, loom is a known fix, ECU is due to neglecting the loom, DC is known fix, oil pump is exceptional and a known fix. C'mon Diana, admit it, you know deep down that you love the Disco2's. :D There is nothing beyond a broken cam belt, cracked head or slipped liner in there like on the other motors which cant be sorted permanently like adding loctite to a bolt such as in the Disco2. :p

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Originally Posted by Slunnie

...<snip>
<snip>... C'mon Diana, admit it, you know deep down that you love the Disco2's. :D There is nothing beyond a broken cam belt, cracked head or slipped liner in there like on the other motors which cant be sorted permanently like adding loctite to a bolt such as in the Disco2. :p

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Yes Simon I know it can all be fixed, but wouldn't it have been better to use a LH thread so the bolt on the oil pump didn't need to have Loctite, or at least have designed the bolt to have Loctite and assemble it that way in the factory. Why design the thing with rubber donuts or non-servicable drive shafts. Once upon a time you carried a spare set of wheel bearings for your long trips, with the DII, P38a, L322 you have to carry a replacement hub (along with a spare C&P for the P38a diff).

It just seems to me as someone who has agonised, researched and eventually decided not to update from a RRc because all the reliability seems to have gone. So I now well into my third decade with my current RRc I can lament the demise of the marque and the fact that the Disco while not holding it's own value has also adversely affected the value of my RRc.

No I don't love the DII, but did think the Defender still worthwhile until of course the Puma engine and the P38a diffs even in the 130 (the only one I would have bought.)

So now I'm backdating, having acquired my first SIII this month. :D :D

Let me go on about the SIII and WWTT. :wasntme:

Diana

:lol2: Go on, tell about the SIII (congrats BTW) - I could start on my SII but I'm still fixing it up to how I would have done things. :burnrubber:

You could also do what Max did and graft the Salisbury under there. I really don't think the P38 diff was the right choice for the 130. Mind you, I also dont think that 24 spline was the right choice for the Salisbury either.

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Originally Posted by Slunnie

:lol2: Go on, tell about the SIII (congrats BTW) - I could start on my SII but I'm still fixing it up to how I would have done things. :burnrubber:

You could also do what Max did and graft the Salisbury under there. I really don't think the P38 diff was the right choice for the 130. Mind you, I also dont think that 24 spline was the right choice for the Salisbury either.

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Well I don't need to graft a Salisbury under the SIII it already has one! ;) But you are correct the Salisbury is a Dana design and in the US you would be getting 32 splines. They could have also used designs like the Ford 9" a very robust design with a shorter pinion length, quite an array of ratios and even some with the pinion at the top which would be good for the front assembly. Their down side, like the Salisbury, they are hypoid design with a significant wiping motion so don't like running dry.

Diana

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Originally Posted by Slunnie

l, loom is a known fix, ECU is due to neglecting the loom,

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Jesus wept. Why the FH should you have to maintain a piece of wiring harness. It should go in at line station X and never be touched unless it has to be disconnected from some failed component. Oops, there I go again, bad mouthing electronics. The technocrat pizza cooks will be after me again.

First step in removing a Discovery II radiator...

Remove the headlights!! :eek::eek::eek::eek::eek: WWTT