Wizard
Hi guys,
I have built both hubs back up, i have the steering arm ball joint re-built (still loving the circlips haha!)
But latest siezed on item in the landy overhaul is ....can't get the track rod end out of the track rod, the u bolt fastener is completly undone, but it wont budge, tried wurthers cold spray stuff (not convinced it was worth thirty bucks) tried heat from a blow torch,
May well be a case of oxy loving it needs in way of persuasion, like the bolt on the swivel housing....any thoughts appreciated regards Andy
RoverLord
it requires elbo grease....
put the rod in a vice, chuck a butcher bar over the taper of the tie rod and lean on it, crank it back and forth agressively, if that doesnt free it you'll need to soak it.
grab a milo tin (baby formula tins are great) put the stuck end in, then add diesel or old brake fluid. leave it to sit in the sun for a few hours and then try again.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
I don't like the heat part. Hope you didn't get it to hot as could weaken it.
Tony
Wizard
well was only looking at heating the knackered track rod end in actual fact and replace it with a newieOriginally Posted by Rangier Rover
Tony
Wizard
gday Dave, i might as well do the drag links as i am there hey? and i have bought the replacements ...looks like all this excitment overwhelmed the deffer as the stress has made the power steering pump go wee wee's ...unless it was leaking before and i never noticed ..cheap from the u.k. so might as well buy one and use the old one as an overhaul project like i plan to do with the transfer case ...cheers for you advice again dave, hope the family are well regards Andy
RoverLord
might as well, but Id hold off on it till you get the new box and then replace the rebuildable ball joint side as well.
at the rate you're going your going to have a rebuilt 130.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Wizard
yeah i hear ya, but i have to get it wacked together for the pit inspection, although it's doing the job twice i have a time frame to get it completed and back on the road, but i am having one hell of a good time doing the work, even with the bloody circlip fiasco'sand i am getting to know her heaps more by doing it, just sump re-seal, whilst at the front, new transfer case (i am going to try and blag that for pit inspection- lots of wiping before going in!) and rear dif tail flange to do.
Post pit inspection prop uj replacement/balance ( gonna farm that out as you suggested - was that Hardey Spicer you suggested for that ?)
RoverLord
yeah it was but only cause thats the only name I know of over there, ask in forum someone else local may know someone better.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
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