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Thread: Galvanising Rivited Rims

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    Galvanising Rivited Rims

    Gday

    An Olmate I know gave me a set of bar treads for my Series truck and I was wondering how the Series riveted rims would handle being galvanised. They had some scaley rust on the inside of the rim and I thought the gal would be good to knock it on the head.

    How do you reckon it would fair?

    Rich

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    I have seen these wheels galvanised, and have heard no reports of any problems. As with any galvanising, proper preparation is needed, but any competent galvaniser will be able to do this. As with any wheel, it needs to be laid or hung flat so that there are no runs of metal on the tyre seating surfaces or the flat that seats against the brake drum. If there are these will need to be removed. You should discuss this with the galvaniser, but he has probably done wheels before, as they are not uncommonly done for boat trailers.

    The fact that the wheels are rivetted does not appear to me to have any relevance, and as I said, I have seen them done.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
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    Try Powdercoat. Can usually be done cheaper, and with some of the finishes now days you can get one that looks like Galv. Be aware, Galvanised metal hates salt water and coastal situations. If your not careful you can end up with white rust growing on the rims which in turn becomes Red Rust..

    Cheers.

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    How does powder coating respond to chips? The powder coated items on my vehicles have been a major PITA, a small chip- particularly on a sharp edge and it lets water in - then the rust starts under the Powder coating. It's happened on a number of different items - is that just bad luck?

    Unfortunately I remember reading that galvanising wheels after manufacturing rendered them unroadworthy. There was an article I am sure on the VICROADS website about it. I'm not sure why though.

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    The best is Galv the rims then have them powdercoated.
    (not cheapest)
    Most things at In coastal areas are Galv then powder coated for looks and rust protection or made from Aluminium.

    If you get a little chip or scrap and they are just black metal the rust will go along under the powder coating and lift the powder coating off in Hunks.
    Talk to powder coaters and they would prefer to cover Galv/zinc steel then black. They do have a spray zinc coating that they place on first but this is not as good as hot dip Galv.

    If the Galv is getting White oxide on it that is the Galv sacrificing itself instead of the metal rusting and if you just let it continue it will eventually mean rust. But for it to continually have white (powder) oxide it must be dirty or covered in something that is trying to rust the metal so if kept clean it will last for years. as per Galv school fence hand rails and lots of other things you see around the comunity.

    A lot of trailers with Galv rims are rivited.
    I usually make things from Galv Tube and have them powdercoated.
    Which is what I will do for my sliders when I make them.
    Cheers Allan

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    Quote Originally Posted by BilboBoggles View Post
    ........

    Unfortunately I remember reading that galvanising wheels after manufacturing rendered them unroadworthy. There was an article I am sure on the VICROADS website about it. I'm not sure why though.
    Probably the assumption is that the heat of the galvanising operation affects the heat treatment of the wheels - I seriously doubt if that would be a problem with the wheels in question, although it could be with thinner metal on wheels fitted to lighter vehicles.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  7. #7
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    I wanted to gal some offroad boat trailer wheels (old ranga items)

    Gal mob in Cairns at $3.30 / kg would mean each rim would be approx $56
    But then when I presented my lovingly wire wheeled rims, the bloke said, they will need to be sand blasted... Thats another $40 per rim from the local mob, who in the end just used 3 coats of two pack for $70 a rim and I was finished.

    Check the cost before getting excited - but Cairns Galvanizing is rip off central!

    S
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

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    I have galvanised several sets of rims - including riveted series rims. No issues. Would do it again in a heartbeat.




    Quote Originally Posted by Tyrepower View Post
    Be aware, Galvanised metal hates salt water and coastal situations. If your not careful you can end up with white rust growing on the rims which in turn becomes Red Rust..

    Cheers.
    Sorry, but this couldn't be more wrong. Galvanising protects steel by sacrificial corrosion of the zinc (I assume this is what you are calling white rust). Field tests have shown that bare metal sections of up to 5mm diameter will be protected from corrosion (if surrounded by galvanised metal) - even in salt water.

    You would need to wait 30+ years for all the zinc to corrode away before "red" rust (I assume you mean Iron Oxide) appears.

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    Quote Originally Posted by isuzurover View Post
    I have galvanised several sets of rims - including riveted series rims. No issues. Would do it again in a heartbeat.






    Sorry, but this couldn't be more wrong. Galvanising protects steel by sacrificial corrosion of the zinc (I assume this is what you are calling white rust). Field tests have shown that bare metal sections of up to 5mm diameter will be protected from corrosion (if surrounded by galvanised metal) - even in salt water.

    You would need to wait 30+ years for all the zinc to corrode away before "red" rust (I assume you mean Iron Oxide) appears.
    Absolutely correct - consider almost any boat anchor as an example; except for the few stainless steel ones, these are invariably galvanised, and could hardly lead a life more prone to corrosion, yet have a long life. I think of the anchor that has hung on the bows of my yacht for thirty years - still unrusted.

    John
    John

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    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by isuzurover View Post
    Galvanising protects steel by sacrificial corrosion of the zinc (I assume this is what you are calling white rust). Field tests have shown that bare metal sections of up to 5mm diameter will be protected from corrosion (if surrounded by galvanised metal) - even in salt water.
    To protect iron from oxidising (rusting) zinc does not have to cover or seal it completely but it helps. Zinc protection works on difference in valency of metals - how quickly they give off electrons ie oxidise. Zinc oxidises faster than steel and hence will 'rust' first.
    A lot of ships use sacrificial zinc anodes which oxidise faster than the metal it protects - in the case of boats and ships, the hul. Sheet metal is best protected by sealing it with a layer of zinc. Have a read of these:

    Here is some boat info: Sacrificial Zincs by Don Casey
    Here is some info on galvanisation: [ame=http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanization]Galvanization - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia[/ame]

    Exposed bare ferrous metal will undergo, at the very least, surface corrosion so these need to be protected by paint.

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