Thread: Fiberglassing

What about using a piece of plywood to make the desired shape (including instrument holes) and then glassing it yourself. I have done this in the past with good results. You can even cover in vinyl when you are finished for a custom look. Your own labour and time wont cost you much (maybe a few coldies).

The front bit which will be flat I can do.

It is getting it to curve in 2 different directions at the back that is causing severe emotional distress.

I have tried thin MDF, foam & cardboard, all with no luck.

My next thought is to get a big block of foam from Clark Rubber or somewhere, and then try my hand at carving it like a sculpture.

Artistic I am not...

clay ?

Originally Posted by Phoenix

clay ?

Now, that's something that I hadn't thought of. Easy to work with, can change it around, stuff it up & start again...


And I reackon I know where I can get it too.

Thanks for that, Phoenix. You have given me hope.

dry cell foam (the flat sheeting they use in boat flotation), go to a boat builder/ fibaglass supplier and get some sheet and laminate it to the desired thickness and then shape with a sharp knife and sandpaper. Get all the curves and nice looks you want. If you make an error, repair with qcell (a fibglass product that is easy to work)
cheers
baze

Heeble is the other thing I was trying to think of, but clay is usefull for a lot of things

If you're using Polyester resin (the smelly stuff) be really careful with the hardener/catalyst which is Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide (MEKP).
Its REALLY bad stuff if you get it in your eyes - eventual blindness if you don't wash it out real quick.

Personally I prefer epoxy resins. Not necessarily any better for you, but don't smell as much (so you can use them inside in winter when its too cold in the shed) and don't have that danger with the hardener.
The two types of resin are incompatible though, so use the same type if you are repairing or bonding to another f/glass item.

Bblaze suggestion of flotation foam is a good one.I've built a few glass/foam dinghies and the foam is easy stuff to work with. You can laminate your glass/resin on top and then dig the foam out later once its all cured.

If you use clay, then once you've got your mould done put it in a plastic rubbish bag and suck all the air out. It will make a good release layer and be a lot easier to get the finished item off once its cured. If using polyester resin you'd best check that the resin doesn't eat the particular plastic first.

SteveG

Dunno how it works with fibreglass, but spray foam in a can is great stuff if you want to mould or sand to shape and then cover over. I've had awful but passable results bogging over huge dents in my old Subaru L wagon.

I limited the shape of the foam with loads of glad wrap and cut down from there. Also not too hard to build up again when you cut too much.

Results were awful due to limitations of the tool, not the materials.

Simon