Thread: OH NO, not the chainsaw!!! - now with PICS!

Originally Posted by Chops

If you decide to get yourself a pressie,,,get a Jonsered,,,,good gear,,,I've cut hundreds of tons with mine,,its never missed a beat, as light as, and starts second pull every time,,,

Safety gear,,,whats that,,,ohhh,,my glasses,,,(cant see without em anyway,,)

JReds ARE Huskies, just a pretty red. Have been for years as Husqvarna own Jonsered.
There are some small differences in some models, but nothing substantial.

BTW, Electrolux spun off the Husky group a couple of years ago, and husky have acquired a few more chainsaw manufacturers since.
Off the top of my head they own/build
Husqvarna
Jonsered
Poulan
McCulloch (worldwide now, was only Europe for a while)
Zenoah/Komatsu

and a stack more

Originally Posted by LOVEMYRANGIE

You might be able to find the odd Yamaha RZ500 engine you could stick in it,
<snip>

There's more than one Yamy 500 bike saw going around the chainsaw races

Oh, and if there is no scoring in the Nikasil, only aluminium pickup, you can use neat HCl carefully and clean the bore up, so then you only need to buy a piston to suit.

Probably still cheaper to get just a piston from the US too, I know my Dolmar one is $195 + here, and the blokes at the dealer reckoned that was cheap compared to husky (they are a major husky dealer too)

BTW, here's Baileys with OE cylinder kits and pistons and Meteor (Italian pistons).
https://www.baileysonline.com/search...cyl&catID=1841

Postage from the US should be around US$38 Priority International parcel (6-10 days)
If you go with Baileys just make sure you have a firm post/handling charge, they are pretty good but can up that part occasionally.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

phafh..


lap the piston and the bore with some wet and dry put the piston in 180 out on the gudgen spin the ring 90 degrees and I bet it starts and goes again.

Betcha it doesn't

Ring'll either snag in a port, remember they are pegged to stop them moving and snagging, and a number of pistons the skirts are different exhaust to inlet, and the inlet skirt side of the piston controls the inlet timing and duration.
Late model Dolmars even have assymetric transfer ports in the piston to feed the transfers.

Originally Posted by rick130

That sucks Ben.

So which side of the piston is the scoring ?
Only exhaust, or inlet too ?
Exhaust only = lean seizure.

Most seizures are usually caused through straight petrol or not mixed properly which I doubt you'd do.
Lean seizures can be common too, either too lean on the HS, or crap in the carby, pulse line failing, diaphragm failing, etc.

Second is an air leak, can be crank seals, torn carby boot, loose barrel. (mate had his Dolmar cylinder come loose and it screamed it's %^$$ off, but he was able to stall it and it came out OK, just needed a new base gasket)

I'd resist the ebay kits. They are out of China and don't compare to your Mahle cylinder and piston.
You can get kits out of the US landed much cheaper than OE from here.
I'm expecting a new kit any day now, under A$300 landed for a cylinder kit and new air cleaner to take my saw out to 79cc.

I'll dig something up and get back to you. Probably ring.

I'll give Serg a call if he hasn't seen this, he knows where to get Husky bits in the US.

Thanks Rick! I was hoping you or Serg would reply. Inlet side is like new. I suspect the Nikasil is damaged, but it is hard to tell - will try cleaning it up.

A few bolts came loose on the body a while back, which meant that chain oil was leaking from the case. Could this have caused an air leak?

Originally Posted by isuzurover

Thanks Rick! I was hoping you or Serg would reply. Inlet side is like new. I suspect the Nikasil is damaged, but it is hard to tell - will try cleaning it up.

A few bolts came loose on the body a while back, which meant that chain oil was leaking from the case. Could this have caused an air leak?

Possibly, the crankcases are split vertically, the oil tank is part of the crankcase casting.
As I posted above, crank seals are often culprits too, can just be a dodgy seal or a crank bearing letting go.

Originally Posted by rick130

Possibly, the crankcases are split vertically, the oil tank is part of the crankcase casting.
As I posted above, crank seals are often culprits too, can just be a dodgy seal or a crank bearing letting go.

Thanks. Bottom end looks like new but I haven't checked for play.

The plastic clamp that connects the inlet to the barrel seemed old and brittle, and broke when I removed it. So possibly could have been sucking air...

Are there any upgrades I can do while I am at it - or is Serg the person to ask. I registered on racesaws, but it seems they don't accept gmail accounts.