I'm the newbie with the Holden 186 powered Series 2A trayback with a stuck clutch which appears to be due to the pressure plate collapsing & the thrust bearing burying itself in the pressure plate hub.
In the absence of a road test, I started it up & let it warm up.
1st observation: severe flat spot. I saw no sign of an accelerator pump on the carb. Does the 186 carby have a pump?
It ran well & quietly apart from a knock from the bell housing. I'm suspicious the mainshaft bearings will be cactus too so the GB will have to be dismantled.
Compression test: (psi)
DRY WET (ie after oil squirted down the plug hole)
1. 90 100
2. 100 115
3. 90 100
4. 95 105
5. 105 110
6. 70 70
Now, this was with my push-in comp tester ( I couldn't start the threaded one) so it reads about 10% low.
Is that about right for a health 186? (no. 6 aside of course!)
No. 6 is IMHO a head gasket because about 3 litres of water spewed out the overflow as it warmed up & there were bubbles evident in the radiator header tank. But it could also be a burnt valve.
I'm the newbie with the Holden 186 powered Series 2A trayback with a stuck clutch which appears to be due to the pressure plate collapsing & the thrust bearing burying itself in the pressure plate hub.
In the absence of a road test, I started it up & let it warm up.
1st observation: severe flat spot. I saw no sign of an accelerator pump on the carb. Does the 186 carby have a pump?
It ran well & quietly apart from a knock from the bell housing. I'm suspicious the mainshaft bearings will be cactus too so the GB will have to be dismantled.
Compression test: (psi)
DRY WET (ie after oil squirted down the plug hole)
1. 90 100
2. 100 115
3. 90 100
4. 95 105
5. 105 110
6. 70 70
Now, this was with my push-in comp tester ( I couldn't start the threaded one) so it reads about 10% low.
Is that about right for a health 186? (no. 6 aside of course!)
No. 6 is IMHO a head gasket because about 3 litres of water spewed out the overflow as it warmed up & there were bubbles evident in the radiator header tank. But it could also be a burnt valve.
If the carb is long unserviced the accel pump plunger will be of leather. Pull the carby top off, soften the leather cup with oil and refit it. Don't bother getting a new one as they are not as good.
Head off is so easy its worth doing anything you can get at easily, like a valve grind, look for broken top ring signs in the bore etc.
The only Holden workshop manual I still have says 130 to 170 hot. Those figures yuo measured indicate the engine is quite worn. Yes, the single throat Stromberg always had an accelerator pump.
Get a screw in comp tester and those figures will be MUCH higher.
On my 202 (same block basically) I was getting the same comp numbers as you using a push in tester. Then used a screw in and was getting near stock numbers.
As for the flat spot. Have you played around with the ignition timing at all?
I had a shocking flat spot on my 202 and I played with the timing and it completely got rid of it.
Adjusting the ignition timing on a holden 6 is as easy as can be. Loosen the bolt that holds the distributor to the block and rotate the distro slightly and tighten up the bolt. Play around with it a bit and see if things improve.
Excellent replies. Esp re that leather plunger acc pump! Shades of those vacuum wipers on my old Chev Lend Lease Truck!
Thank you!
I think while the eng is out, I'll reco the head to make sure it can handle ULP.
Plus a set of rings & prob big end shells won't go astray.
I think one of those El Crappo rotating eng stands may be the go! I don't think the bench mounted unit I have for air cooled VW's will handle this lump!
if you are going to re con the engine,Think about what cam etc goes back in they can be improved for fwd use.also perhaps get a baffled sump they tend to run out of oil pressure on an angle when the oil runs away from the pickup.
if you are going to re con the engine,Think about what cam etc goes back in they can be improved for fwd use.also perhaps get a baffled sump they tend to run out of oil pressure on an angle when the oil runs away from the pickup.
The best engines for the Land Rover were the 186S and the 186A. The best model sump to use is the one out of an HT as the bulge is in the middle and so still has oil on both steep inclines and steep descents.
An adjustable main jet is an advantage on the Stromberg carby and lowering the float level by bending the spring will reduce the chance of flooding on steep inclines.
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
An adjustable main jet is an advantage on the Stromberg carby and lowering the float level by bending the spring will reduce the chance of flooding on steep inclines.
Cut out a fuel resistant plastic packer to take up most of the space in the fuel bowl. This solves the inclination problem. This improvement was fitted to all late model Rochester Quadra Jets and is recommended for off-road racing in their tech. manual.
I've attached a photo of a couple of Stromberg accelerator pump pistons. The plastic one is next to useless, the seal splits very quickly. The first one I fitted got me to Cooma but failed on the way home. Got this replaced FOC and that one failed some months later. I then hassled the supplier and he managed to find a new brass piston with leather seal. No problems since......
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
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