Thread: Engine conversion dilemma

It is likely the Ford Auto is close coupled to the Series transfer box and if done in the usual way with a Braxton/Sim conversion you also won't be able to fit the PTO winch. This is because of the rear bearing needed to support the spud shaft into the transfer case.

If you wish to go auto and winch, you should probably be thinking of something like the auto and engine out of a Disco or an electric winch.

Perhaps it is time you did reconsider swapping the truck. Or maybe putting some power assistance on the clutch. I don't know if its possible but would a VH40 work as a booster in a clutch line?

The other issue there is the Ford C4 auto is very short, much like a series gearbox. If you run a disco ZF auto it will be too long and the options are to either push the lot forward with a Defender type nose or a run a rear propshaft which is about 20cm long if you push the motor and everything back into or through the firewall to keep the original fascia.

I would guess that there is no easy optioneither short of adapting a 4cyl motor to the auto. That auto should be easy to get bits for.

Hi there

I support Diana words....

Perhaps it is time you did reconsider swapping the truck

I understand these vehicles grow on you and become part of the family - but when you add up all the costs ....

Engine converson ...... theres some that are good and others which are ugly.


Well my views.

Originally Posted by Slunnie

The other issue there is the Ford C4 auto is very short, much like a series gearbox. If you run a disco ZF auto it will be too long and the options are to either push the lot forward with a Defender type nose or a run a rear propshaft which is about 20cm long if you push the motor and everything back into or through the firewall to keep the original fascia.

I would guess that there is no easy optioneither short of adapting a 4cyl motor to the auto. That auto should be easy to get bits for.

Surely it wouldn't be as bad as all that??? The 109 propshaft is quite long - especially with a rover diff - which it looks like the vehicle in question has. We are only talking about moving the engine back 12-18" or so.

If you want an auto LR ute, the only options would be to buy an RRC which has been converted, or to buy a 110/defender ute and swap the R380 for a ZF auto.

If you have the time and skill to do the conversion yourself, and are happy with the shortcomings of a series (steering, brakes, axles, suspension) then I think you would probably be better off converting yours.

I like the rough and rugged ride of the series models and only just sold a good condition comfortable and reliable Pajero. If only i didn't mind the look of the extended front radiator panel it would be an easy conversion. I think the job of moving the entire engine and trans back would end up taking so long I would loose focus. To modify the fire wall, all mounts, drive shafts, chassis cross members and all linkages seems such a big job. Would be great once done but too big for me. I am now thinking of maybe trying to add a clutch booster to help the ankle and some how try to squeeze more horses out of the 179 before I commit to a big heart transplant.

Ahhh sorry. I was thinking this was in the 88"

I can't see any reason why servo-assistance cannot be used on a hydraulic clutch. I am sure I have read of someone doing this on their Rover in LRO International. Use a remote servo that can be bolted anywhere convenient,

Cheers Charlie

correct you can servo assist the clutch.

hell you can put an air ram on it and have it air or vac operated via a push button on the gear shift.