Thread: No Clutch

if you've over adjusted the clutch pedal you wont be getting enough throw on it as the freeplay has been removed preventing the fill valve from opening while you pump it up. if theres no free play on the push rod to the piston thats your first problem

the second problem can be if you've missed the engagement on the carrier for the release bearing which can then stick the release mechanism.

the third is if youve hit the imperial/metric conversion problem. usually only a problem if you go metric on one of the plates and imperial on the other.

the 4th is if you've forgotten the adaptor thats supposed to be on the front of the thrust bearing thats used in some conversions some attach to the fingers of the pressure plate and others slide in behind the throwout bearing.

it may not even be the clutch, it could just be the input shaft spalled onto the spigot bearing.

I've also seen

friction plates with the drive center off center and off alignment making the friction plate "wobble" enough to maintain friction and drive
pressure plates with bendy fingers that never release the pressure plate
on the series 2 clutch mech the splines so badly worn that the shaft slips in the fork
the pushrod that drives the release arm is bent


hope thats some help.

Hi Dave, many thanks for all the points but now I have more questions 1/ I'll back the pedal adjustment off so we have freeplay. 2/ you've lost me on the release bearing, do you mean the throw out bearing?. 3/ dont think so, both plate and housing bought in one lot. 4/ there was no adapter when we pulled it down...uh oh. 5/ input shaft spalled on the spigot bearing - you mean 'seized' such as if there was no grease on it? friction plate was aligned well and with the gear lever removed we can see at least an inch of movement when pressing the clutch pedal down.

thanks heaps and hope you can elaborate on the above as you've given me a few things to follow up on.

cheers,

matt