Thread: Holden 186 Alternator Replacement

Ingram is merely an aftermarket auto electrical parts manufacturer. You will find that the original is a standard Bosch type, they ranged from 35Amp with external regulators on 149/161/179/186 later models used 65Amp internally regulated and higher capacity.

I usually go for a 85Amp internally regulated type and I wouldn't go any lower than a 55 amp internally regulated type. Make sure you use a larger battery that will cope with higher current/loads. 4WD or V8 batteries are suitable.

You should be able to get them anywhere like Repco, AutoBarn or Supercheap.

Most Holdens were fitted with Bosch, whilst the base model vehicles usually had Lucas. Yours was most likely a 35 amp alternator. You can get change over reco's, or you may pic up a second hand one from a Wrecker, but it will most likely need a reco job anyway as they are getting on in age and would have seen a few miles. There are also new ones available at a good price, I bought an 85 amp Bosch for around the $200 mark a couple of years back. A quick search and I found a 120 amp model to suit your engine for $269 and a 100 amp model for $189 so there are plenty available.


Bosch Holden V8 253 308 6 Cyl 202 3.3L 161 173 Hi-Output 100 Amp Alternator





Cheers,Mick.

Thanks both for your speedy responses, I hadn't considered the different amp ratings (showing my ignorance). I'm not sure what battery I have fitted but it's not the biggest in size. Should the battery advise what amp rated alternator it can handle?

Would most batteries be able to cope with 100 amp?

Thanks again.

You would want to have a 10 or 12 inch battery. The standard for most series Land Rovers is 12 inch N70Z or equivalent although a 10 inch heavy duty will be O.K. the problem with smaller sized (and therefore capacity) batteries is that they have less area on their plates and higher currents will produce more heat which they have to shed.

It is why I recommended nothing smaller than a battery recommended for V8s (heavy duty) as a minimum.

Remember if you have an old battery that isn't holding or taking a charge this could be your headlamp problem. Put a volt meter across the terminals and see what charge it has before you start in the morning and then what it is taking when the engine is running.

If the voltage is much less than 10V in the morning you likely need a new battery. If the voltage doesn't rise to around 14V with the engine running it is an alternator problem.

Just remember if you fit an 85 amp or even 55amp alternator you will most probably have to fit a heavier cable from the alternator to starter and then to battery.
You can really fit any Bosch alternator as long as it has the same mounting method as what is there, either 2 ears or tube and you make sure that the pulleys line up exactly.
Regards Philip A

I have a vs commy v8 alt on my s3 with 186. I think its 85amp from memory.

Cheers Rod

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Thanks for all the advice. I managed to get a Bosch 85 Amp alternator. I've taken off the old one and side by side they look alike which is a positive!

Question, wiring. The old one has just two connectors, a spade and a terminal with a nut. Now the new one has two spades and a larger terminal with a nut. Any suggestions on which spade I should connect on the new one? If it helps, in my current configuration the charge gauge / warning light have never worked so I'm guessing that's not connected.

In my fleeting look, the large wire goes to a unit mounted on the engine side of the bulkhead. I thought it was meant to to head straight to the battery?

Any advice on wiring this new unit up greatly appreciated. I'll be sure to replace the cable with something that can cope with 85 amps.

Thanks

It sounds like you have a 35amp bosh with external regulator.

If it is an external regulator and still there you need to delete it from the system.

As you suggest the large wire (at last 5mm core) should run from the terminal with the nut either to the battery or to the battery cable on the starter motor.

The wire from the indicator (probably marked Ind+) needs to go direct to the D+ on the alternator.

The other terminal is a tap to provide an impulse used for tachometers on diesels or vehicles with electronic ignition.