Thread: Help identifying wiring please.

Can't help with the tube but the wiring looks like it's an upgrade for the headlights. If it was dealer fitted then I'd be removing it, then repeatedly beating the dealer fitter around the head with it while saying "You're not an animal you're an animal chin". That should fix that problem.

Is the third pic the underside of the relays or is it where the relays connect back into the main harness? If it's the latter then they have kept the original wiring. Thats ok as long as you don't upgrade the globes but will give better voltage to the originals.

If each relay has 5 wires coming from it then they are operating both low & high, powered to low beam when turned on and changing over when switched. There will be an input from the battery, which at least they've fused. An input from the switch which it looks like they've cut into (the blue/white if LR have kept to original wiring colors (on that basis the other input would be blue/red)), this will feed out and into the same color to power out to the lights.

Thanks Clubba.
The third pic is the connection at the rear of the RHS headlight. It just looks spliced and taped. The wiring runs from there to to the LHS headlight and similarly connected. It is part of the same loom that runs back to the relays. The replacement "loom" between the lights is tape wound all the way. I didn't try high beam when I was testing (d'oh), but the the inline fuse removed I couldn't fault any operation so I suppose it is probably highbeam.
I also worked out that with the bullbar there isn't enough room to remove the headlight module without dropping the bar (ARB winchbar).

I remember reading a D4 bar thread and they have the same problem, not removing the lights. If I recall correctly, you can remove the platic surround off the back of the light and it'll come out.

As for the wiring. sounds like they have cut into and reused the original wiring and just added relays. Does each relay have 4 or 5 wires? Just trying to work out if they are trying to power high only or high & low.

My suggestion (depending on how good you are with soldering) is to return it to normal and get a complete upgrade loom from Tim at Traxide. Not only will it look better but will be completely plug and play, so you can return to normal if selling. plus wil be larger wiring so will support higher wattage globes plus he also has a plug in driving light harness to match if required.

Hi Shining

If you are referring to the 2 relays shown in one of the pics and I noticed you mention you have an ARB bullbar, they are for the additional indicator lights on the bullbar. I've just had an ARB bullbar fitted and they have installed relays in the same spot and they can be heard clicking when the doors are locked, ie indicators flashing.

You mean you oay upwards of $2k for a bulbar and thats their standard of wiring?

Oh well I once saw a Rangie that had continuosly exploding airbags because SCR wired the phone power and earth into the airbag circuit. All it took was for someone to call and bang.

Originally Posted by kingo

Hi Shining

If you are referring to the 2 relays shown in one of the pics and I noticed you mention you have an ARB bullbar, they are for the additional indicator lights on the bullbar. I've just had an ARB bullbar fitted and they have installed relays in the same spot and they can be heard clicking when the doors are locked, ie indicators flashing.

That's what I installed also for the parking and indicator lights for my ARB bar.

The first pic looks like the battery drain tube.

Originally Posted by kingo

Hi Shining

If you are referring to the 2 relays shown in one of the pics and I noticed you mention you have an ARB bullbar, they are for the additional indicator lights on the bullbar. I've just had an ARB bullbar fitted and they have installed relays in the same spot and they can be heard clicking when the doors are locked, ie indicators flashing.

Originally Posted by RichardK

That's what I installed also for the parking and indicator lights for my ARB bar.

The first pic looks like the battery drain tube.

As said above. The bars need relays or the indicators flicker. ARB Northside failed to put them on mine and it caused issues.

And check if you have a hole on the end of the battery for the drain tube.