Thread: hitching and unhitching

Gday...

I have a D3 but I am sure it would be the same for the D4 ....

Hitching - I put the D3 in 'access' and then reverse upto van and make sure I have the towball EXACTLY under the van's tow-socket, use the jockey wheel to lower the van down so the top of the towball is level with the lower outside rim of the van's tow socket. Then I raise the suspension to 'normal' and it usually goes straight in. Then I use the jockey wheel to lower the full weight of the van onto the towball. (It has usually already taken the full weight anyway).

Un-hitching - I use low-range often to maneouvre the van into the site and that seems to particularly 'load-up' the hitch-to-van. Put EPB on D3, and then I put the van handbrake on FIRMLY then I put the D3 into neutral, return the D3 to Hi-range, this usually releases any 'pressure' then engage the EPB. I then use the jockey wheel to SLOWLY raise the van from the towball and it usually comes off without any drama. I then lower the suspension to make sure it is all clear.

The agressive un-hitching I used to experience before I developed the above used to concern me immensely - it almost seemed to be damaging to van and D3.

Hope that helps (and works for you).

Cheers
John

Leave the drivers door slightly open when hitching and or unhitching and the Disco will stay at the same level and not try to adjust up or down when weight is added or subtracted from the tow hitch.

Its the only way I have found that you can do it with a Trig hitch as you have to be far more accurate then with a tow ball.

cheers,
Terry

I have the D4 and when I am hitching a trailer on, I always seem to have the drivers side door open..............for no reason.
I first lower the trailer onto the tow ball, then hook on the chains & connect plug. As soon as the weight of the trailer is on the vehicle, the compressor kicks in and starts raising the rear end.
Cheers, Craig

Maybe you need to look at the adjustment on your ball coupling it might be to tight. When I used a ball coupling after everything was released I would give the whole rig a little nudge by going into reverse then drive. Then I would drop into access mode and every thing would release with no trouble.

I now use a Mchitch with a tapered pin and its very smooth to disengage.

From: McHitch.com.au - Uniglide Trailer Coupling

Good one Mowog. I threw away my AT35 some time ago, and am now using the McHitch, and consider it 'Brilliant'. Always had trouble with the old one, especially on undulating ground, but now, as with you, no problems, as the tapered pin philosophy, along with the universal joints range of movement, makes hitch up, and down, real easy. Good on Joe McGinnes for inventing the thing.
Don.

Joe is a top bloke.

I use a Rapid Hitch as well and Joe had a pin modified to fit my Rapid Hitch and all for a very reasonable price as well.

Originally Posted by TerryO

Leave the drivers door slightly open when hitching and or unhitching and the Disco will stay at the same level and not try to adjust up or down when weight is added or subtracted from the tow hitch.

Its the only way I have found that you can do it with a Trig hitch as you have to be far more accurate then with a tow ball.

Same, same.
The height changing whilst the towbar takes load when hitching isn't such a problem.
But the height changing is a problem whilst unhitching. Best solved by leaving the drivers door open when removing the Treg hitch pin, & driving forward to clear the hitch.

HI All,
For hitching and unhitching has anyone used the programmed key fob? It can be programmed to raise and lower the car by pressing the program key and lock or unlock button at the same time. You have to have the doors closed and the hazard lights on. Just a thought???