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Thread: Driving Lights - D3/RRS

  1. #61
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    "Ah, I see" said the blind man...at least that explains why they're no better than halogens!

    If you're looking for better low beams you could fit H7R HIDs. The H7R globes have a shield to give low beam cut-off. However they wont improve high beam as the shields are fixed.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  2. #62
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    Thanks - I wonder why the lens is still in front of the halogens because the lights would work a bit better without them. The halogens are only 55w in high beam as well as low beam.

    I thought Bi Xenons were standard on D3 SE and HSE and on RRS but obviously not.

    Those HR7 HIDs look the goods - probably 55w (the OEM LR ones are 55W) and 4300k colour. I wonder if the shields are needed in view of the lens - I don't know.

    55w 5000k HIDs in the high beams should also be OK.

    Cheers

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    I wonder if the shields are needed in view of the lens - I don't know.
    Good point, as the halogen globes don't have shields. If you were to get a kit with H7 globes you could try them in the low beam and if they produced excessive glare just use them for high beam and get the others for low beam.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    Whilst this link is not the same brand that I purchased, it appears to be the same.
    55W HID Xenon KIT H1 H3 H7 HB3 HB4 H8 H11 9005 9006 50W | eBay
    On your advice I have bought these - 5000k H7 to initially put in the low beams. Dunno how to test whether they will be too high or not - guess test it by the number of flashes I get when driving around.

    If they are too high I will move them to high beams and get the H7R HIDs for low beams. If the normal H7s are OK I will get the same for the high beams.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  5. #65
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    I bought the 5000k H7's kit for my Halogen High beams, fitted them already.
    Look so much whiter & brighter.
    I have not been able to drive my D3 as I am not allowed to drive for a 6 week period until I see my doctor again.
    Less than 2 weeks left to go
    I'll report back then!

  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    Dunno how to test whether they will be too high or not
    I'd be inclined to compare the light patterns / cut-offs on a wall after fitting the 1st, and I'd do the left one because of less interference with the other. They might flash on startup, so either get the headlight specs changed to bi-xenon or just put up with the initial flashing.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    They might flash on startup, so either get the headlight specs changed to bi-xenon or just put up with the initial flashing.
    Flashing??? I knew that HIDs might take a little while to get to full brilliance but what is this flashing. Also do the HIDs cause a fault message and if so how is this corrected (again LR being too smart for itself - the lighting system really does not need to go through the main computer system).

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  8. #68
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    The flashing, if it occurs, would be due to the lights being momentarily switched off because of unexpected higher current being drawn by the ballasts whilst starting the globes than normally required by 55w halogens. Changing the light specs to bi-xenon prevents lights upgraded to bi-xenons from flashing, but as they're only 35W, 55W might still trigger a suspected excessive current shut-down.

    I've only read about L322 RRs giving globe fault messages.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  9. #69
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    So it is the usual D3/RRS computer having a hiccup over nothing rather than there being an actual issue with the wiring and its ability to support 55w HIDs.

    When mine arrive I will see how they go. I haven't found any aftermarket Bi Xenons that will fit without having to pull the light fittings apart to replace the lens with the lens supplied with the kit.

    Thanks for all the information you have provided - it has been very informative.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  10. #70
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    Back to the Bi xenon shutter for a moment – The shutter will have a different + feed to the halogen filler, when the lights are flashed only the filler operates, as flashing a HID globe shortens its life expectancy not to mention the warm up time making it ineffective. The only way that the filler can fulfill this function without the shutter is for a separate feed.

    The L322 has 2 extra feeds for Bi Xenon high beam function – one to operate the shutter and one to power the “Bi Xenon ECU” (third + feed is for the filler). Cars with halogens often have no fuse in the slot that powers the ECU…
    L322 3.6TDv8 Lux

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