Great stuff Gaz
I hope it works in the long run for you, please keep us informed of any updates. Sounds like a easy fix if it's true.
Rich
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Hey guys.
Sorry for the longish post but;
Had a bit of a drama with my D3 turbo diesel.
The engine message came up on a trip "engine system failure", with a resulting power drop. Of course it happens when towing a fully loaded car trailer 1/2 way between Melbourne and Sydney. Left in auto the fuel consumption went to crap and it struggled to pull the heavy trailer. I firstly tried resetting the battery and this helped for about 15min, but it came on again. It was pretty dark so I pulled over for the night. The next morning the car ran ok for about 20min and the danm message came up again. As it was daylight there was a plume of smoke under load from 1700-2300 then it went away, so I decided to run the car in manual mode, keep revs up about 2500, and the car ran fine with full power and no smoke.
Upon arriving in Sydney, I popped into Trivetts and got the codes read and the main one was P132B, which they diagnosed as a stuffed turbo and it will cost about 5k to repair (ouch).
The internet is a beautiful thing as I entered the error code, searching here came up blank, but there was abit of info on the UK forum Disco3 but not much. The diagnosis was the variable vane turbo was not activating the low RPM position, which would explain the smoke as excess fuel, and why the car worked fine at higher revs.
I found there is an Actuator service kit (LR023086) which is available for about 20quid in the UK, which is better than replacing the turbo, but the turbo is not in a real friendly position in the TDV6 so it would be about 12-16hr job (not 5k but still a nasty 4 figure bill). Apparently the turbo actuator gets jammed up with carbon either due to the car not being driven hard enough, and the EGR valve makes the intake a little messy.
With more reasearch with other diesel VVT setups alot in different cars had similar issues, and they had a very good success with using an intake de-carbonizing treatment. Seafoam is the preferred supplier for this, but it happens that subaru bring it over hear and market it as "upper engine cleaner", so for the princely sum of $36 I purchased 2 bottles of the stuff.
The procedure is pretty simple, with a pre warmed engine, just disconnect the airbox and spray 1/2 the contents of the can down the intake shaft and let it sit for 5min or so, then next step is have someone start the engine, and under some light RPM deliver the rest of the can. It ran pretty rough at this stage bellowing some smoke to the atmosphere (sorry EPA) and after the contents of the bottle are finished just let the car sit for 10min or so.
Upon restarting she ran a little rough and abit of smoke for a few min but with a road test, to my delight there was no "engine system failure" message and the car run like a bullet. The mrs driving it most of the day today, still no error message and car runs better than it ever has.
Its early days, and It may need a 2nd treatment, but it looks like the VVT needs periodic de-carbonizing to keep the turbo healthy. Seems a similar phenomenon with all VVT turbos.
Hope this helps people with similar issues
NOTE: I was pretty happy with the towing when car was working, 1800kg or so, 110-120km/h, was returning 11L/100km, the BAS remap was making its presence felt
Great stuff Gaz
I hope it works in the long run for you, please keep us informed of any updates. Sounds like a easy fix if it's true.
Rich
Diesels need to be worked hard (occasionally) - "drive it like you stole it" seems to work.
cheers
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Not sure if you guys clean the MAP sensor, as lots of the guys in the UK have reported better running and economy with them cleaned. Im going to have a look at mine now.
Day2......Everything is good, mrs was driving it most of the day and no "engine system failure" and she happily reported the disco went like a bullet
Yes I cleaned mine well after I blanked my EGR valve pipes. It made quite a large difference to my fuel economy especially around town. For example I've reset my trip computer due to a visit to my mechanic and auto electrician and used 5/8 of a tank driving locally my readout is: 6.4ltr per 100km. Previously it was always over the 10 mark.
Worked for me but I think it is the combination of the blanking and cleaning.
You can only do this on pre 07 models.
I used an electrical contact cleaner on my MAP sensor.
So true oldsalt. Another thing is not to idle it too long when you first start it. Turn the key (or press the button) then drive straight away, but gently until the engine gets to normal operating temperature.
Its good to let a diesel labour a bit sometimes, especially whilst towing.
Cheers, Craig
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						the Map sensor was not too bad but a bit of residue, but I cleaned it anyway with some wax/grease remover and once the main stuff was off, I used the electrical contact cleaner.
Im looking forward to some improvement to fuel use. Admittedly we live in the hills, but we struggle to get less than about mid 13's.
I think Im gunna get the EGR valve blanking plates and I may as well get the intercooler silicone hose both from BAS.
Another example of "specialists/dealers" doing an electronic diagnostic to diagnose an issue rather than doing any real work and then charging the owner mega bucks for parts and work not needed.
Electronic diagnostics are an aid only and should not replace good ole fashioned mechanic work - doesn't seem to happen much these days on newer vehicles.
Happened to me with my Freelander - had a fault that indicated a problem in the injection pump when shutting down. Everyone who saw the car wanted to replace injectors and the pump for an all up cost $3-4K. Given it was a shut down issue, took me 15 minutes to remove the shutdown solenoid, clean and refit - a small amount of crud stopping the valve completely closing when shutting down had triggered the check engine light. All fixed and I am no mechanic.
Sure, could have been something different but no mechanic tried to actually diagnose the issue.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Mind you, thinking about it you are pretty game!
Does it say anywhere on the can that is is safe for diesel engines?
Subaru turbo's where all just about Petrols not Diesels.
I'd actually be worried about the high compression with the stuff.
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Yep - us Subaru owners(soon not to be with the new D4 on the way)swear by that stuff! Not sure why Subaru themselves stopped using it routinely though ...

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