Thread: trailer connection for D4

Hi,

I used a Traxide kit for rear anderson 12v supply. I comes with isolator and very importantly, decent sized cables. I seriously doubt the internatal wires supplying the white trailer connection set are thick enough to provide sufficient power? I'm no auto elec but very time I read about installing mods it always becomes a debate about cable suitability.

But yes, you could still do it with the D4.

Ditto on the traxide kit, I fitted the dual battery setup with dual outlets in the rear luggage area and an Anderson plug for the caravan.
A well made kit that was straight forward to install with comprehensive instructions.

Cheers Colin

Originally Posted by DiscoTom

Hi guys, I am contemplating changing my 2009 D3 TDV6 Se to a D4. In my D3 to get power to the fridge in my jayco outback I used a jump wire from the power point wire on the white trailer connector(left side) to the reversing wire(black) on the black(right side) trailer connector. do I have to still do this for the D4. Hope u understand this query. thanks Tom

Yes it is the same, we use the white plug to run power to our camper to run the fridge, we use it because when you turn the ignition off it also cuts power to the camper off, so no flat battery in the car.

Baz.

thanks for the update Guys.
looks like I have to do the same to the D4.
regarding the size of the white wire, yep probably right, but the fridge is only a 90lt and this power just ticks it over.
from what I understand in the jayco u cannot run the fridge from the battery(not yet installed) whilst underway or parked. anyhow i will investigate this further.
thanks Tom

Hi Disco Tom,

I'm not clear on the Jayco setup?

Does it / will it have a 'house battery(s)' to run 12v stuff? Will the fridge be powered via that source? If so then most people top up charge these whilst driving with power supply from the vehicle. If that is the case then I'd be very surprised to hear that the D4's wires providing power to the trailer or 12v socket in rear are thick enough to top up an auxiliary battery.

I'm in no way an expert here but from previous set ups I've learnt that you need a current well in the 14. volts range to keep the battery charged.

With a proper isolator and power supply you can charge and run what ever you want without worrying about unplugging when not on the run.

I am a little better Jayco savvy & the way they work as standard is they DO NOT run the 12v side of an absorbtion(3 way) fridge off the house battery or inverter/charger, but ONLY off the hot wire from the car plug/loom.

So, if you leave it that way, you need to have an isolator/cut off to protect the starting battery, because they do suck quite some amps, even in the 90L form!(I think it's still around 18Amps from memory).

Personally I've hooked it to the house battery, and use a DC-DC Ctek D250S Dual to help things along in the van when towing ...

If you use the second white plug on the Disco, at least one output is switched on/off with ignition, and one is always on.

If you've got an Expanda, get over to expandaownersaustralia : Expanda Owners Australia
There's a few of us Disco owners from here on there too!



Regards,

Les.

My Jayco Jayflite camper house a 45ah house battery that the 80l dometic 3 way runs off when I am driving and stopped. On 12v the fridge draws 10amps (from the handbook) so when stopped I have a couple of hours so no rushing to switch to gas when setting up cap.

Pending the installation of a second battery and isolator in the car I have power running direct from the RRS starting battery to an Anderson plug at the rear that recharges the camper battery when driving. This probably gives me about 5 hours all up before batteries start to get a bit low - obviously change to gas as soon as possible but there is not the urgency to switch. When I do install an isolator and second battery in the car then there will be no risk to the car starter battery.

My brother's Jayco is like others in that the camper fridge will only run on 12v when the car is connected. I do not like this system as all the load from the camper fridge is carried by the car battery, where in my system the load is shared between the car and camper batteries giving a little bit more of a safety margin.

I always carry a 18ah jump start battery pack for those little emergencies.

Garry

Originally Posted by Redback

Yes it is the same, we use the white plug to run power to our camper to run the fridge, we use it because when you turn the ignition off it also cuts power to the camper off, so no flat battery in the car.

Baz.

Redback,

When you say you run your fridge from the white plug, do you also take the earth from pin 7 on that plug? Or use earth on pin 3 of the black plug?

Thanks, John