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Thread: EGR Blank on 08 TDV6

  1. #1
    Ean Austral Guest

    EGR Blank on 08 TDV6

    Gday All,

    Well done the EGR blank today, and so far so good. I hooked up hawkeye before I started and ater I finished and have no faults logged, went for a burn and still no faults, so will see how things go.

    OK things I learnt doing the blank off.

    When you get to the part of the spindle, remove the whole centre housing, it takes about 1 minute.. behind the Y section is a fuel return connecter , it just lifts up off the plastic holder, you dont need to dis-connect anything and just wiggle the housing and the Y pieces will pop out of the inlet housing. There is 1 other connecter on top and it unplugs.

    You can then turn housing upside down and access the spindle very easy.I spent 45mins trying to get the spindle out and cracked a small peice of plastic off it, but when you remove the housing and turn it upside down the housing has a slot which allows you to use a big flat blade screwdriver and put it under the plastic part on the base of the spindle and because you are using the housing base as a wedge,not the edge, you can apply more pressure and it popped out in about 1 min.

    The beauty about this is you can do it all on a work bench instead of under the bonnet of the car. Then you remove the ends of the EGR pipes as well and can clean all the gunk, and there's heaps of it, out of the housing, fit the blanks, refit the spindle and then just fit the whole housing back onto the engine conpletely done and ready for the airbox to go straight back on.

    Anyway, if anyone would like to know more , or I haven't explained to properly ask away or send me a PM.

    Will keep undated on whether any faults pop up.

    Cheers Ean

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Well done - where are all the blow by blow pics.

    Everyone (here and in the UK) has said it couldn't be done but when I asked who had actually tried I got no responses other than it cannot be done. I began to think an urban myth.

    Then a guy did it in the Uk and it worked. It would seem that on the post 07MY cars the egrs still have to be serviceable where on earlier cars it is not an issue.

    Please keep us informed of your progress as I am interested in doing mine while they are still working. I had egr faults late last year but it was the connector rather than the egrs - a bit of a clean up and no further faults.

    How long did it take and what spares and consumables do you need in advance??

    Cheers

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  3. #3
    Ean Austral Guest
    Gday Garry,

    As for blow by blow pics, I thought about it, but when you buy the EGR bank kit, it has step by step instructions, but they say to remove the spnidle and butterfly in the car, well I tried that, and I could see I was going to do major damage to something, so I remove the whole housing.
    That took about 1 minute extra, and made the job so much easier, you just move 1 electrical connecter out of the way ( the fuel return 1 infront of the oil filter housing, and 1 on top next to the Y piece, and do the spindle removal and the removal of the EGR stub pipes on a work bench.

    I took 3 hours, but spent 45 mins getting the spindle out and 30 mins cleaning the gunk out of the housing. Its actually quite an easy job except for the spindle withdrawal.

    Tools needed, 8 mm socket and universal joint with 2 extensions or 1 long 1 for the bolts down beside the engine where the blanks go once you remove the EGR pipe
    10mm spanner,
    8mm spanner,
    couple flat blade screwdrivers
    T30 and T25 torx bits
    1 pair of small hands.
    plenty of rags, and some good degreaser.

    If I did it again, could be done in 2 hours with a coffee in the middle.

    Cant say I can tell if the car drives any better, but does seem to kick down as soon as you hit the loud peddle.

    Cheers Ean

  4. #4
    Ean Austral Guest
    This is the engine with no more EGR fitted


    Uploaded with ImageShack.us

    This is the centre housing I say to remove, you can see the 2 extra connecters at the back, the red 1 just lifts off the bracket and the 1 on top of the housing just unplugs.


    Uploaded with ImageShack.us

    The rest is as per the instructions you get when you buy the blanking kit

    Cheers Ean

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Location
    Canberra
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ean Austral View Post
    1 pair of small hands.
    Thanks

    But I do not have small hands
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  6. #6
    Ean Austral Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    Thanks

    But I do not have small hands
    Me either, but it would make putting the blank on the drivers side a blody lot easier to do, and to get the bolt back in on the air box as well.

    The drivers side is the hardest side to do as there is not alot of room, and this is where you need the socket universal as 1 bolt is just on the wrong angle.

    Cheers Ean

  7. #7
    Ean Austral Guest
    Gday All,

    Well got our first fault today, I wasnt in the car , but after hooking up hawkeye, the fault said something along the lines of excessive EGR detected, and 3 orange lights came on the dash, and a brake message on the message centre.

    The car still drove ok and never seemed to lose power or have a suspension drop, so have cleared the fault and will see how long it takes to re-appear. Done about 180-200ks since EGR blank.

    Will keep updated on how it goes.

    Cheers Ean

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
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    Bummer
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  9. #9
    Ean Austral Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    Bummer
    I also see the bloke on the UK site is having issues as well


    Will see how we go.

    Cheers Ean

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Newman WA
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    bad luck .you see what is really required is a deeper understanding of the EGR system,how it works and what exactly triggers what .By not removing the actual EGR valves ,both sides what is actually achieved ? Sure ,removing the Piping from the valve to the butterfly controller removes any chance of EGR Gass/Crud/contaminantsgetting into the inlet tract , but how does that lead to Excessive EGR . Withn my early model engine , the butterfly shaft remains connected and in place and operational , is that the same as yours EAN ? (as per the BAS write up)This butterfly is called the "Electric throttle" but appears to be driven by the needs of the EGR system
    The combined EGR modulator and cooler is located under each cylinder bank, between the exhaust manifold and the
    cylinder head. The cooler side of the EGR is connected to the vehicle cooling system, via hoses. The inlet exhaust side is
    connected directly into the exhaust manifolds on each side. The exhaust gas passes through the cooler and is expelled
    via the actuator and a metal pipe into the throttle housing. The EGR modulator is a solenoid operated valve which is
    controlled by the ECM. The ECM uses the EGR modulator to control the amount of exhaust gas being recirculated in

    order to reduce exhaust emissions and combustion noise. The EGR is enabled when the engine is at normal operating
    Is this when you get the Fault Light Ean ?
    (only when its up to temp)


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