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Thread: ZF 6HP26 Maintenance

  1. #1
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    ZF 6HP26 Maintenance

    This was not written in response to an inquiry by me, but from a Jaguar owner. Those vehicles weigh considerably less, and live a considerably easier life than DIII's. I hope this information leads to more maintenance to prevent premature transmission problems, as well as an increased awareness in the importance of maintenance.

    May 31, 2011

    Thank you for contacting ZF Service North America in regards to your 2005 Jaguar. Oil service questions are by far the most common inquiry received since the start of our life time oil fill. ZF fluid if of very high quality and capable of life time service in most applications. To address this I have attached a letter written to our distributers regarding oil service. I believe this will address your questions but feel free to respond if something is left unanswered.

    If I'm correct the noise you are referring to occurred during the 3-4 / 4-3 shift and was due to the clutch plates humming during apply. Your dealer drained 1 liter of fluid and replaced it with a liter of fluid containing additives to eliminate the noise. This was due to clutch plates humming during apply and was not a wear concern.

    The bump from behind at stops may be due to normal internal wear combined with programming not accounting for this wear. I recommend contacting your Jaguar dealer to see if any updates are available to address this. While some independent service centers claim they have the ability to update software only your Jaguar dealer has access to factory support as well as ZF support where all problems are researched. If a fix is available the dealer will make this recommendation. If a more serious problem exists your dealer will be able to diagnose this as well.

    April 26th 2011

    ZF Automatic Passengercar parts distributers

    Dear Distributor:

    It has come to our attention there is confusion in the field regarding service intervals and fluid recommendations for ZF 5HP and 6HP applications.

    ZF has promoted lifetime service for many 5HP and 6HP factory filled transmissions. Lifetime is not clearly defined and each OEM manufacture has there own philosophy. ZF stands behind lifetime recommendation where listed in the vehicle operator’s manual. ZF engineered and tested our fluids to retain its characteristics through normal lifetime operating conditions. However, a spirited driving style, special environmental considerations and other individual driving factors may place higher than normal loads on transmission fluids. To assure proper operation it is advisable to perform a drain and fill at 100,000km/62,000 miles or eight years.

    Due to the complexity of operation, high output of current engine offerings and the expectation drivers place on their ZF equipped vehicles ZF only endorses the use of ZF Lifeguard Fluids and parts or OEM approved fluids and parts. Fluids and parts not approved for use by ZF or the original equipment manufacturers have not been tested and may not meet the required demands. Use of these fluids or parts will void factory warranties and warranties placed on aftermarket transmissions remanufactured by ZF. The use of any fluid additives is prohibited as the result will unpredictably change fluid properties potentially resulting in transmission failure.

    Some fluids previously recommended were factory fill or available only in the European market. To simplify obtaining the correct recommended fluids ZF now offers Lifguardfluid5, Lifeguardfluid6 and Lifeguardfluid8.

    Finally there are some customers that feel the need to perform a transmission oil service as part of their regular maintenance. Changing the fluid more often is entirely their decision. Properly performed oil service will not damage the transmission. Most problems occur due to improper refill procedures, incorrect fluid and or non OE parts or with transmissions that already have a drivability problem. Use of ZF or OE parts and fluid is strongly recommended for best results,

  2. #2
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    SBD4 is offline A Keeper of the TGO Gold Subscriber
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    No, this is not a urine test gone wrong!

    I took the D4 in for a service at Graeme Cooper Automotive and asked to have the transmission fluid changed. He pulled these samples out to show me the condition of the fluid he had collected from another vehicle. The sample on the right shows the condition of the oil after 65K km and, of course, new fluid is on the left. Stuart said the sample he got was not the dirtiest as he didn't get the initial oil that flowed out as he was not prepared with containers on hand.

    If any one is in any doubt as to whether or not they should have this service performed then, hopefully, this will help you to make up your mind.

    By the way, GCA recommend changing the fluid every 50K km.
    Cheers,

    Sean

    “Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former.” - Albert Einstein

  3. #3
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    Brilliant. Thanks for posting.

    I have often pondered this 'lifetime' stuff and what it means for the 'ordinary' driver of vehicles using these sealed systems.

    I tended to agree that the claims from car dealers and oil companies of the oils/fluids actually lasting the lifetime distance were true but that it is the contaminants derived from internal mechanical wear which causes the expensive failures.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumbles View Post
    I have often pondered this 'lifetime' stuff and what it means for the 'ordinary' driver of vehicles using these sealed systems.
    While the oil change interval is a long time - it has never been claimed it is sealed for life - is an urban myth.

    In normal use the Landrover service interval is 240,000km/10 years and when used for towing or offroad use - much less. Now this is still way too long but it not sealed for life.

    ZF, the gearbox maker claim 90,000km in normal use and half that for arduous use.

    On changing the oil - the gearbox temp need to be between 35 and 50 degrees. When putting the new oil in, how are people heating it to get it at the required temp - in the missus' oven to heat it up??

    Obviously if outside temp is above 35 then not an issue.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  5. #5
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    I changed my pan and oil at 96000 1st time, the oil that came out was no different to that that went in appearance wise, both honey brown.
    The vehicle lived in the mountains behind Brisbane and towed a 2 horse float every other weekend, I understand not very far 20 odd klms from home and back.
    The transmission is definitely not as smooth as before and changes differently, used oil supplied by ZF.

    Interestingly the top auto shop here warned me not to change the oil until they had taken a sample and had it tested, most did not need a change this side off 240000, but they always tested the oil first. Most problems start after an oil change.
    L/R dealer and the specialist LR shop up here both said change it at 100000 if towing.
    Personally I would not change it if I had the choice again but would get it tested and be guided by that.

    DD

  6. #6
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    Glynhouse - I did my own oil change - basically a small amount more went in than what came out. I used the Ford ZF fluid which was cheaper than getting it through LR. It's the same stuff. I noticed the shifts were smoother, some of the TCC lockup shudder has gone. I also noticed though that on the whole, the box seems a tad noisier. I notice the TC turbine seems noisier too. I also notice a small amount of vibration at idle, but I'm bit OCD with my cars so I'm not sure how much is down to just paranoia.

    It's interesting that your tech said that many problems start after an oil change. I'd be interested to hear what he has to say about it.

    My fluid was quite dark. Not black, but much darker than the new fluid. Compare the photos above.

  7. #7
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    An update on my service today....

    Stuart at GCA said that the fluid in mine did not need changing having checked its condition. My D4 has now done 80K km.
    Cheers,

    Sean

    “Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former.” - Albert Einstein

  8. #8
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    Bought my 2007 RRS last may with 128000k on the clock & not sure if it did any towing or not , after reading so many posts re ZF trans i decided to service the trans for peace of mind so fitted metal pan etc and a full flush oil change , the trans runs just the same now as it did before with no problems other than a growl noise at approx 80kmh on excelerating up which was there originaly . The oil that came out was just a shade darker than the new sample above and the filter was relatively clean , if i had my time over i would not have worried with the oil change etc . What i should have done was drain a sample out to check it ( oh for a dipstick ) if clean carry on if black change it ,also would not worry about the metal pan either . Just my thoughts, Al.

  9. #9
    Ean Austral Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    While the oil change interval is a long time - it has never been claimed it is sealed for life - is an urban myth.

    In normal use the Landrover service interval is 240,000km/10 years and when used for towing or offroad use - much less. Now this is still way too long but it not sealed for life.

    ZF, the gearbox maker claim 90,000km in normal use and half that for arduous use.

    On changing the oil - the gearbox temp need to be between 35 and 50 degrees. When putting the new oil in, how are people heating it to get it at the required temp - in the missus' oven to heat it up??

    Obviously if outside temp is above 35 then not an issue.

    Garry
    Gday Garry,

    Interesting, as the way I read the oil top-up proceedure was to fill the sump till it just started to come out the fill plug , then start the car select each gear, and using a reader of some sort let the oil heat up to a temp between 35-50 degrees. Then top up until the oil just trickles out the fill plug. Not have the oil at that temp prior to putting into the gearbox.

    Mine was as black as at 79,000ks(from memory) and I changed it again 1000ks later (still very dark) then 1000ks later again ( was close to the original new oil colour )
    I have enough oil to do a final change, and will likely order another filter, and do the filter and oil next time, then just check it 50,000ks later (if I still have the car)

    Cheers Ean

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ean Austral View Post
    Interesting, as the way I read the oil top-up proceedure was to fill the sump till it just started to come out the fill plug , then start the car select each gear, and using a reader of some sort let the oil heat up to a temp between 35-50 degrees. Then top up until the oil just trickles out the fill plug. Not have the oil at that temp prior to putting into the gearbox.
    That will certainly work - I thought it was to get the temp in the box up above 35 and in the meantime head up the oil you are going to put in above 35 then drain the box and then top up with the warm oil until it just trickles out.

    How much oil comes out with a basic change?? Buying a 20 litre drum seems to be the most cost effective way to buy the oil - works out a bit less than $30 a litre.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

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