Who told you that ? Stealers or a Indy ? Just what were they going to do ?, uppers and lowers ,both sides ?Did they mention the balljoints ? Its not easy to do it yourself , some special tooling required (An electric Hacksaw!)
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						G'day all, I recently had my D3 TDV6 serviced and I was told that my front suspension bush's were badly worn and needed to be replaced.
This was fine until I heard the price................$1600+GST??? And they would need the car for 2 days.
Has anyone else had this problem before?
Can this be done your self, if you have basic mechanical skills?
I believe they will repace the ball joints aswell, but $1600+ still sounds rather heavy.
Cheers
Who told you that ? Stealers or a Indy ? Just what were they going to do ?, uppers and lowers ,both sides ?Did they mention the balljoints ? Its not easy to do it yourself , some special tooling required (An electric Hacksaw!)
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						I prefer not to mention names, but that was for both sides including ball joints.
I would assume that they are going to replace both the lower control arm assemblies complete.
The arm itself has a ball joint, hydra bush & rubber bush.
It is easier to replace the whole arm as normally you replace the ball joint then you need to replace a bush soon after & so on. You end up paying more for labour so it is easier to just do it once.
Cheers
As Sneigy has said , probably for both sides , Lowers only ,using service exchange type arms complete with bushes and ball joints , and the important camber bolts/nuts. The price is reasonable considering it near $800 in parts ,but lowers only shouldnt take 2 days . Its only 8 hrs using the power hacksaw method.I know one Indy that does both upper and lower complete changeouts for just under $2000 , which makes only a lower changeout for $1600 a bit Hexxy .
Did you notice this problem at all ? Just how bad is this clunk/bump/knock anyway ? Get the mechanic to show you the wear/problem .
It may need doing , but maybe in another 20,000K
The Standard way to test for Bush/balljoint condition,is to swap from Forward to reverse and back again at idle with the brakes on. Youll here a knock if the bushes or balljoints are excessively loose/worn
The link below is to a pretty good discussion re the advantages of changing out both front lower arm assemblies rather than just the two ball joints.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...nt-issues.html
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						I have not noticed and knocks or bumps at all.
I just tried you test method and there are no bumps or knocks either??
The reason the mechanic said it needed to be done, was the inside wear on the tyres.
I will have to check with him, but by the sounds of it, he will replace the whole control arms. He did mention using a D4 part.
I will call him next week and get more info.
Thanks for your help gents!
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						400hpongas, what do you mean by the "important camber bolts/nuts" do these come with the control arms? Thx
Lower arm front camber adjusting bolt 275 203Lower arm rear castor adjusting bolts 275 203
These are the bolts that go through the Bushes ,they are eccentric allowing the adjustment of Castor and Camber for Independent Front end that your landrover has .
Invariably they are seized of worn ,allways replace , seeing the fast way to get do the job is cutting them off anyway !
Suggest you get on EBAY and download one ($10 Last time I got one !)of those Cheap Workshop manuals for a D3, (dont worry if its for a Yank LR3 , 90% of it will still apply .
Thanks for all the great info. My D3 has the same issues except I have a slight knock every time I go over a speed hump. Time to see the mechanic. Any suggestions for Adelaide?
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