Page 3 of 8 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 78

Thread: Spare wheel winder access via socket extension

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    1,201
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Fred Nerk

    I have a 1/4 drive extension and a 1/4 ratchet driver. I store it with the jack and tools.
    Hi Fred,
    Is your drive extension just 150mm, or longer?
    Cheers
    Stuart02
    Now 2016 D4 HSE 'Leo' and Steve the Triumph Speed Twin
    Then 2010 D4 3.0 HSE 'James'
    Then 2010 RRS TDV8 'Roger' w traxide DBS, UHF, Cooper Zeons, Superchips remap
    Then 2010 D4 TDV6 'Jumbo' w traxide DBS
    First love 2002 D2 TD5 'Disco Stu'

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    1,201
    Total Downloaded
    0
    In the end Bunnings had all four components (3/8dr 22mm socket, 3/8M to 1/4F adapter, 150mm 1/4" extension and cheap 1/4" ratchet) for about $35.
    I have come across a super short 22mm socket designed for removing motorbike axle nuts, I'll update on the fit-for-purpose when it arrives.
    Now 2016 D4 HSE 'Leo' and Steve the Triumph Speed Twin
    Then 2010 D4 3.0 HSE 'James'
    Then 2010 RRS TDV8 'Roger' w traxide DBS, UHF, Cooper Zeons, Superchips remap
    Then 2010 D4 TDV6 'Jumbo' w traxide DBS
    First love 2002 D2 TD5 'Disco Stu'

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Central Tasmania (formerly Adelaide Hills)
    Posts
    369
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Sorry that I had not answered earlier, but I have not been checking the threads.

    I am pretty sure that the 1/4 extension is 150mm in length and it is a comfortable fit as per the pictures. I'll check it next time I have time and correct this if its wrong.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    1,201
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Turns out my wheel winder is slightly off centre to the left. Don't know why, but I only had to take one plastic seat-hinge cover off to get the 1/4" extension through.
    The super-short socket doesn't make much practical difference.
    The 150mm-long extension comes up about 30mm above floor height, which is probably handy if you're thinking of a false floor.
    Now 2016 D4 HSE 'Leo' and Steve the Triumph Speed Twin
    Then 2010 D4 3.0 HSE 'James'
    Then 2010 RRS TDV8 'Roger' w traxide DBS, UHF, Cooper Zeons, Superchips remap
    Then 2010 D4 TDV6 'Jumbo' w traxide DBS
    First love 2002 D2 TD5 'Disco Stu'

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Mount Martha
    Posts
    1,399
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Fred Nerk View Post
    It was easy to find the extension bar at Sprint Auto parts and at Autobahn. There were cheap sets of extension bars of various lengths.

    The hard-to-get bit for me, was the 3/8 to 1/4 reducer.

    A 3/8 extension bar just wouldn't fit between the seats in my car. This may vary depending on the tolerences when the rear seats are fitted. You might be lucky.

    The seats are well clear of the cover and the 1/4 drive socket and there is no issue with the normal function of these seats.

    It is necessary to either remove the plastic hinge covers (two screws each) or there is an earlier post in this thread showing a groove cut across the plastic to accomodate the extension bar. I preferred removing the covers. I don't notice that they are gone. They can easily be replaced by the next owner if desired.
    Did mine yesterday.
    Got the bits from Bunnings for $33.00 and took about 10 minutes.

    Thanks heaps for the useful advise.

    BTW: I was surprised how far off centre the lowering bolt was.

    Cheers, Craig

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    523
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Although I purchased most of the parts last month, I finally got around to completing this modification on Saturday as I was doing a trip on Sunday.

    I got:

    • Kincrome 3/8 drive 22mm socket (Part # K2847) (<$5)
    • Kincrome 3/8 to 1/4 reducer (Part# K2933) (<$5)
    • Sidchrome 1/4 150mm extension ($9)
    • Supertool 1/4 ratchet driver ($7 - in comparison Sidchrome / Kincrome are around $15-$20 each)

    Not all Bunnings have these in stock, and neither did my local Repco.



    Installation notes:

    • I found that I do need to remove the seat hinge covers
    • Cutting an "X" in the rubber dust seal cover does not suffice - a snug hole is better
    • I used "Shoo Goo" instead of silicone. It tends to be stickier and is also easily removed without a trace. It will also give way if you need to access the area. (I use it a lot in radio control car applications for both metal and plastic).
    • I think the 150mm extension is fine and protrudes enough from the floor to make it easy to turn. If you get the 225mm extension you may have issues if you have a drawer system (sorry, can't comment from experience).
    • At first I was concerned that the length of the 1/4 ratchet handle might be a little short (all brands seem to be around the same length) and make it hard work to wind, or too narrow in diameter to give it strength, but all is fine. Note that the picture in Fred's installation seems to be a 3/8 handle (decent length and girth) -> 1/4 adapter -> 1/4 extension -> 3/8 adapter -> 3/8 socket.

    Thanks again Fred and others for the great write-up and pictures.
    Last edited by eddomak; 8th October 2012 at 01:12 PM. Reason: Minor details added

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Hunter valley
    Posts
    15
    Total Downloaded
    0

    MY2015 Discovery Spare wheel winder Modification

    I experienced a flat tyre on my 2014 Discovery SDV6 SE before I appreciated the need for the modifications documented so well in this topic. Murphy arranged a remote Tasmanian gravel road, steep hill and hairpin bend, towing a camper trailer and with the Disco luggage area full with fridge and other gear for me to try lowering the spare wheel. I was just glad there was no traffic, rain or mud!


    My first project on returning home was to ensure that experience is never repeated, so I am really grateful for the solution on this forum. My problem was that Land Rover, instead of addressing the problem by enabling the spare wheel to be lowered with an external system, changed the winder on the MY2015 model from a 22mm nut to a boss with a hole.


    I had to modify a 3/4 socket to engage the boss and not come off, in order to use the 1/4" extension drive solution. The plastic hinge covers on the 3rd row seats still had to be removed. The snug holes in both the rubber dust cover over the winder and in the rubber cargo area mat are small improvements to the previous design, and by using a plastic valve cap to seal the hole in the mat I hope there will be no issues with dust or water ingress from above or below.


    The photo collage illustrates the modified solution for the MY2015 Discovery. I hope other Disco3/4 owners make this modification before the long arm of Murphy's law taps you on the shoulder!


    Neil

    Sorry, I don't seem able to insert the actual photo.

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    523
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Neil,

    We were just replacing a tyre on the updated D4 during the last Range Rover Club Sand Driving course, and commenting on the new design and how it might mean the old method wasn't as viable. Well done on the solution. The picture looks fantastic and well explained. (There is a thread here on how to attach pictures inline).

    Here are the photos to save others needing to click:


  9. #29
    LRD414's Avatar
    LRD414 is offline Super Moderator Subscriber
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    3,737
    Total Downloaded
    0

    modified socket

    Quote Originally Posted by Nmritchie View Post
    I had to modify a 3/4 socket to engage the boss and not come off, in order to use the 1/4" extension drive solution.
    Neil, this is an excellent solution. I have been using a standard 1" socket with only 6 sides. I have found that the flats of the socket are ok to turn the boss but it's a bit loose and I do wonder if the socket will come right off.

    I had assumed that slotting and drilling a socket would be very difficult. Did you use a special drill bit? And how did you achieve such a neat slot?

    Cheers,
    Scott
    D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
    Link to my D4 Build Thread
    D3 2005 V8 Petrol
    Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Hunter valley
    Posts
    15
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Thanks for adding my photo, and pointing to the thread on adding photos. I will use that next time.


    Thanks also for the encouraging feedback.


    The 3/4 socket was a spare that did not have a brand, and I was lucky that it was not too hardened to cut. I found a hacksaw was best to cut the slot. I cut multiple cuts as close together as possible, broke out the remaining pieces and filed the base smooth. I was able to drill the side holes without any problem, ensuring they were as low as possible. The slot had to cut into the centre of the socket a few mm so the bolt would go through the hole in the winder.


    All I can suggest is that if the socket is too hard to hacksaw or drill, try another brand. A slightly bigger size should also work. The slot was just wide enough to fit over the winder. I had considered using a cutting disk but was not confident of the accuracy I would achieve.


    Regards
    Neil

Page 3 of 8 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!