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Thread: 2.7 TDV6, a wee bit of a problem, possibly......

  1. #21
    Ean Austral Guest
    Just looked and the manual refers to it as "water outlet housing" so would have assumed it would be mounted with a or a couple of O'rings but will await your findings.

    Cheers Ean

  2. #22
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    Hi Ean,
    Couldn't resist the temptation I've removed the housing, yes there are two seals that seal the ports to the block, these aren't leaking, however, the housing is in two parts sealed with some sort of plugged off rivet set up, this is the bit that can't be repaired and I suspect is leaking. Nothing obvious though.........!

  3. #23
    Ean Austral Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Nomad9 View Post
    Hi Ean,
    Couldn't resist the temptation I've removed the housing, yes there are two seals that seal the ports to the block, these aren't leaking, however, the housing is in two parts sealed with some sort of plugged off rivet set up, this is the bit that can't be repaired and I suspect is leaking. Nothing obvious though.........!
    Interesting, we used to have heaps of problems on the trawlers with plastic housings leaking on pumps etc, think its likely the temp ranges they work in..

    Smother it in 5 min Araldite, let it sit for a few hours and see if it seals...got nothing to loose if you need to get a new one.. I reckon 5 min araldite is a tube of miracle's.

    Thanks for the update.

    Cheers Ean

  4. #24
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    What Ean said.

    But replace the rivets with some S/S nuts and bolts to hold it.

    Part is not exe $22.16 but fixing it may make a better part. coolant will be more expensive.

  5. #25
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    Hi Guys,
    I got a new one from Sneigy last week when I was in Melbourne ($30), I'm going to look at fixing the old one when I've fitted the new one. I have access to a casting mob, I'm going to look at them casing me one out of ally. I suspect this is a bit out there but they have a new three D modelling set up which looks pretty sexy, might be worth a shot.

  6. #26
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    Exellent idea

    Could be a good seller.

  7. #27
    Ean Austral Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Nomad9 View Post
    Hi Guys,
    I got a new one from Sneigy last week when I was in Melbourne ($30), I'm going to look at fixing the old one when I've fitted the new one. I have access to a casting mob, I'm going to look at them casing me one out of ally. I suspect this is a bit out there but they have a new three D modelling set up which looks pretty sexy, might be worth a shot.
    Keep us informed, seems as tho its a matter of WHEN, not if ,the part will fail, so will be interested at the right $$$

    Cheers Ean

  8. #28
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    For what it is worth I have just had a major 6 year 100K service done new suspension arms and a complete trans oil change and metal pan done. D3-MY07 Dec 06 build.
    The one thing the service mob (not a dealer) advised/insisted was that I should change the outlet housing, before it split ! They carried a stock of them.

    DD

  9. #29
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    Wink In closing.......

    Hi Forumites,
    So in closing, I've now refitted a new outlet housing, and so far so good, no leaks. My lessons learned here. There are two sensors in the air throttle body and air box elbow, if you intend to clean the items whilst you have them off make sure you remove these sensors, these sensors will hurt your wallet if you damage them, I was quoted over a grand for the two of them, something to be mindful of.
    The two clips that hold the EGR pipes on, buy new ones just in case, at $6 new ones are cheap insurance, easy to get back on, maybe not so, I got mine back on but required a little bit of innovation, I'm sure I wasn't doing something right.
    Carry an outlet housing spare, take it away as a trip spare, I can't imagine the guy at Fitzroy crossing have one on the shelf. Go by the coolant filling procedure, if you don't it doesn't fill properly, 3000 rpm for a minute may seem a little gruesome, it does work.
    When I stripped the outlet housing out not much water drained out of the housing and hoses, it took two litres to fill the system back to where it should be. From this I would assume that despite the system looking to be full before I started there was two litres of air in the system somewhere, I can only assume now that this would be the top of the radiator and the top of the outlet housing, based on this I suspect that the housing would have been warmer than normal which could well have compounded the issue.
    Something of note, the sensor just down stream of the butterfly valve on top of the throttle housing was quite plugged up with gunk, I cleaned this all out with electrical cleaner, the engine now seems more responsive and seems to go a little better, might just be psychological, but it appears so.
    DON'T go prodding around inside the hole only wash it out, the sensor is sensitive and does cost over $500, and neither LR agent in Perth had one.
    I was advised to use electrical cleaner or brake cleaner for cleaning the sensors.

    Hope this is of some use to people out there.

  10. #30
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