Thread: driving light mounting

Apart from the obvious ego boosting attraction of having driving lights out front is it generally accepted that they are needed or there is a real benefit?

I find the D3's bi-xenon thingymajig headlights on high beam to be incredible. On a recent trip north through a new section of sweeping road there were brand new large road signs. The reflection off them from the headlights was almost painful.

The light is so crispy white and penetrates so far I can't imagine what benefit old style 100 watters would be.

Lighting is one part life that has changed incredibly in recent years. I used to have 2 x 60W floods running off 24V on a boat. Having them on for an hour or two was a big concern for battery drain. Changed to 2 x Hella fully sealed LED floods (60W equivalent) and you can barely see them register on the ammeter and the light is beautiful white and penetrating. When you see the old floods now they look all yellowy & dull like the battery is flat.

So bolting on spots and feeding high amp wiring etc. seems to be like a backward step?

Originally Posted by PerthDisco

Apart from the obvious ego boosting attraction of having driving lights out front is it generally accepted that they are needed or there is a real benefit?

I find the D3's bi-xenon thingymajig headlights on high beam to be incredible. On a recent trip north through a new section of sweeping road there were brand new large road signs. The reflection off them from the headlights was almost painful.

The light is so crispy white and penetrates so far I can't imagine what benefit old style 100 watters would be.

Lighting is one part life that has changed incredibly in recent years. I used to have 2 x 60W floods running off 24V on a boat. Having them on for an hour or two was a big concern for battery drain. Changed to 2 x Hella fully sealed LED floods (60W equivalent) and you can barely see them register on the ammeter and the light is beautiful white and penetrating. When you see the old floods now they look all yellowy & dull like the battery is flat.

So bolting on spots and feeding high amp wiring etc. seems to be like a backward step?

Have a look at these threads. They cover off a lot of what you are asking:

FYRLYT Driving Lights
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...ties-what.html

G'day PerthDisco, I like you also thought twice about driving lights as the OEM ones are so good but checkout my thread which I have added photos of the variation between all of the lights (standard, high beam and high beam and driving lights) I notice the difference particularly in the width and also in the clarity of light in front. I also find that going down dark streets/tracks where there is no additional light that it makes a massive difference, i also find that the lightforce 240's are substantially better than the narvas i had. Hope this helps.

Cheers
Julian

Sorry forgot to add the thread

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...buildup-7.html

Cheers
Julian

Originally Posted by DoctorJ

Sorry forgot to add the thread

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...buildup-7.html

Cheers
Julian

I knew someone had posted with/without shots just couldn't remember who.

Has anyone used the Land Rover Driving Lamp Mounting Brackets that LR uses for their own lights? I wonder if they fit aftermarket light, in which case it would be ideal.

Not compatible with winch though, although I don't intend to get one.

You tell me... (Note the aux lights are not aligned properly in these pics)

Without Driving lights.
Attachment 53649


With driving lights (Fyrlyt)
Attachment 53651

Thanks to all. Definite improvement can be seen but the OEMs are darn good compared to the stock headlights of yesteryear.

I wonder if a bullbar slightly reduces the effectiveness of the headlight?

I am interested also in the reduction in cooling air with bars, spots etc. out front.