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Thread: EGR valve fault and replacement......

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Canberra
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fatso View Post
    Good quality oil and sooner than latter oil changes are the way to go .
    If you go the correct oil spec there is no "bad quality oil" irrespective of brand.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  2. #12
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    May 2007
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    Byford, WA
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    Hi Garry,
    Some oils have lower coking properties due to the temperature characteristics of the oil, one reason I use the Royal Purple brand. There are other reasons, this is one of them. Sorry if I'm not supposed to mention brands, on this occasion it is relevant.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Byford, WA
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    Hi Al,
    This is a bit off the topic, however you seem to be quite familiar with the Faultmate unit, have you ever gone into calibrating the suspension? Setting heights? I have one corner that is about 18 mm out, I've played around with it a bit by changing the settings, however I've usually ended up in a worse place than I started and ended up going back to the original settings. Have you "played" with this function at all?

  4. #14
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    Mar 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nomad9 View Post
    Hi Al,
    This is a bit off the topic, however you seem to be quite familiar with the Faultmate unit, have you ever gone into calibrating the suspension? Setting heights? I have one corner that is about 18 mm out, I've played around with it a bit by changing the settings, however I've usually ended up in a worse place than I started and ended up going back to the original settings. Have you "played" with this function at all?
    I just have the basic FCR, i think i can only read and clear faults with it , it is just enough to keep me out of trouble . Al

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    NSW SW Slopes
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nomad9 View Post
    I have one corner that is about 18 mm out
    There must be another corner that's out a lot too, assuming the ground is level and the chassis isn't bent. You could play around for quite a while but I suspect a recalibration would be best but I don't recall if Faultmate has this function. I raised the front of mine 10mm by subtracting 20 from each front calibrated value but have had no need to adjust a single corner.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Hi Graeme,
    The Faultmate does have a recalibration mode on it, however I'm trying to find a procedure on how to use it, I've sent off a request to Blackbox. Chassis bent............ yes this is an option, however I would hope not.... I was trying to get into using the recalibration mode, the ignition had to be on with the engine running, having the engine on whilst I tried to figure things out was quite distracting and seemed to go on forever.
    Just wondered if any one had used or worked out an easier way, sounds like the answer is no. Thanks for the hints though.
    Yours Marty

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    NSW SW Slopes
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    The engine needs to be running to run the compressor. Recalibration must be done on a level surface and from what I've read, can be quite time-consuming.

    I was displaying some ecm info a few days ago when ignition power timed-out mid-session, which I found a little disconcerting. However as no updates were being done to any ecu there was no possibility of damage.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

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