Thread: RODS RODS RODS

This is what I'm talking about...... Good useful tips that make the process easier ...cheers lads !,,

Originally Posted by phl

I used some silicone grease,

I keep a mini can of silicone spray in the car with the original rods in case I need to change them.

And if it hasn't been said before in this tread....safety first. Ignition off, driver's door open, fuses pulled...before putting your arms into the wheel hub.

Originally Posted by WhiteD3

And if it hasn't been said before in this tread....safety first. Ignition off, driver's door open, fuses pulled...before putting your arms into the wheel hub.

Removing the engine bay 20A suspension system fuse is the only action that prevents the suspension ecu from levelling - none of the others have any impact on preventing the suspension from lowering.

Can you post a picture where this fuse is?

Engine bay / passenger side.
Take off battery cover to reveal fuse block.
It's on the right side looking from the front, there is a legend under the cover as to what is what. By memory it's the forth fuse back from the front. Check using the legend.

I thought it was in various positions depending on vehicle model but all my wiring diagrams for D3, RRS and D4 show it as engine bay fuse #26. In the RR Vogue its in the passenger compartment fuse box but I wont identify the number to avoid confusion here. On my D4 its the 3rd fuse from the front on the outside (I removed it today before changing wheels). The diagram on the inside of the cover shows a vehicle with its wheels in ruts.

Edit: There's a 5A suspension fuse in the same fuse box but removing that is not sufficient.

If this fuse stops the car from lowering, couldn't it be wired through a switch and used to stop the car self lowering at 50kmh when in extended mode?

For the initial removal of the OEM rods and fitting of GOE rods it is much easier to use a chassis support stand to reduce the risk of the car lowering while reaching into the wheel arch. Avoids the need to play with electrics/fuses and is safer.

When changing position in the field, it is easier with the suspension raised and front wheels turned to one side lock. (It doesn't matter which). Takes a little practice to become familiar with the task. If you become aware of the suspension moving when changing the rods, move the sensor arm to point straight down and the movement stops. Causes a temporary "out of range" fault which resolves itself later.